Stellenbosch Days

When the weather is fine (like January) and the tasting rooms aren't too crowded (like weekdays), Stellenbosch is a great place to wander and sip and relax and take in some of the most remarkably remarkable wine country on the planet.

Just a few suggestions...


Stellenbosch Town
Wijnhuis • Melissa's


Waterford Estate
Chocolate tasting • Kevin Arnold Shiraz

L'Avenir Wine Farm and Lodge
Stay the night • Reserve Pinotage (yes, Pinotage!)




Dornier
Sauvignon Blanc • skip the reds • great restaurant

LaMotte
Stay for lunch • Millenium Bordeaux blend red • Chardonnay

Clouds Estate
Self-catering bliss

Corkbuzz Now Open -- Union Square (NY)

A warm Wineline welcome to Corkbuzz.

Looking for a glass of wine or a class with master sommelier/owner Laura Maniec? Interesting, varied wine list and a great menu for nibbles or nosh. They also offer a decadent Sunday supper and a BYO night.

Corkbuzz
13 East 13th Street
(646) 873-6079

Happy Happy

South Africa Merlot

The big reds from South Africa can be really, really big. If you're looking for a bit more nuance, a wine of medium body, then the Merlots may be a good bet. There are lots of them worth sipping. Here are a few of our favorites.

Bilton

Stellenbosch
4 Stars Platter Wine Guide: "Succulent and sophisticated, deeply fruit-rich... layered with dried herbs and smoke, building complexity..."

Dieu Donne

Franschoek

Winery, guest lodge and restaurant. All are good. Their Merlot picked up three awards in 2010 (Michaelangelo, Veritas, Bruxelles). Unfortunately not available in the US or UK, but you can order from their website.

Dornier
Stellenbosch

Another one with a great restaurant, great guest lodging, even great architecture (pictured above). And the Merlot? "Intense,deep red colour, dominated by a fine concentration of red fruits, cherry and plum..." (Their Donatus Red, a blend, is also a winner).

Ernie Els
Stellenbosh
One of the blends (there's even a bit of Petit Verdot for good measure). Wine Enthusiast (90 pts): "Polished and lengthy, with a mix of ripe plum and blackberry fruit woven with grilled herb notes." Yes, available in NYC.

Hartenberg
Stellenbosh
Top tier Merlot. Veritas Gold medal winner.

Meerlust

Stellenbosch

One of the old, venerable bastions makes a ripe, rich left bank style Merlot.

Morgenster, Lourens River Valley
Stellenbosch
Tanzer loves this one: "Deep, saturated ruby-red, elegant nose..."

La Petite Ferme
Franschoek
"Christmas pudding flavours – spicey, plums and some nutmeg. This wine is predominantly soft with some firm fruit tannins..."

• • •

See: South Africa post.

Read the ArtInfo.com Article on South African Wine

Bordeaux Bargains

Ah les bargains de Bordeaux! There aren't a lot of them. Actually, there sort of are.

Chateau Beaumont is another Haut-Medoc unsung winner. Wine Spectator: "Soft and velvety, with blackberry, mineral and light mint character on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied, with a caressing texture. There's lovely balance..." SF Chronicle says: "Elegant, lush palate." Grab the 2005.

Beynat, Cuvee Leonard - from Cotes de Castillon, which is next to Bordeaux. This is one of Sherry-Lehman's unsung heroes of Bordeaux, and it's worth a song or two. (See "Lesser Known French Regions" post). Sherry Lehman seems to be the only place that carries it.







Chateau Charmail (Haut Medoc) is a blend of 45% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. Wine Advocate on the 2004: "Copious fruit characteristics, medium to full body, and attractive sweetness as well as richness."
Here's what Cork Popper had to say. Buy it at Wine.com

Clarendelle is a successful blend. Suckling writes in Wine Spectator of the 2006: "Polished red with cedar, berry and chocolate character. Medium-bodied, silky and refined. Delicious already."










Chateau de Fieuzal is a bit more pricey at around $40 a bottle, but an example of how good lesser-known Bordeaux can get. From Pessac-Leognan. Since 2005, WS gives them 89 points or more and says, "Smoke, black truffles, crushed rock, and leafy notes combined with earth, fresh mushrooms, and cassis result in a complex set of aromatics."











Château Malmaison Baronne Nadine de Rothschild. "Raspberry jam aromas follow through to a full body, with a very soft tannins." WS 90 points (2006). Try K&D on Madison Avenue, in fact try them for Bordeaux bargains in general. Knowledgeable staff, great selection.

Pichon Lalande's second wine, Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande Reserve de la Comtesse, is a mouthful to say -- and drink. A structured Pauillac blend, mostly cab with a dash of cab franc. Get it at Macy's Wines. More on French Second labels.



. . .


More:
"Big Guns and Bargains."
"Drinkable and Cellarable" (Forbes magazine)

A Different Shade of White

Tired of Sauvignon Blanc every night in summer? Had it up to here with Pinot Grigio?

Try a different white tonight...

Ansonica Bianca, also widely known as Inzolia, a fruity, minerally white grape mostly used in Tuscany and Sicily.
Try: Donnafugata Anthilia

Arneis, the white grape used in Piedmont, dry with a tough of pear.
Try: Ceretto

Falanghina, from the southern Italian region of Campania, especially well-known in the vineyards around Naples on the Amalfi Coast.

Catarratto-Inzolia from the southern-most province of western Sicilly.
Try: Aquilae

Bolgheri Bianco and Bolgheri Vermentino, both from the coast of Tuscany.
Try: Batzella Mezzodi

Viognier, from France, California, South Africa, the world.

Malvasia, a group of wine varietals, mostly used in Italy (Lombardia, Sicily, Lipari, and Sardinia).
Try: Vionosia

Pigato, heavily acidic Italian variety from Liguria; the wines are vinified to pair with a cuisine rich in seafood.

Big Reds

Goeie naand. Fire up the braai. Get ready for steak. A few big reds from around the world...

Alban Vineyards Syrah. Central Coast goodness.

The Chocolate Block. Like a right bank red mixed with good, dark chocolate.

Tignanello. Which means, in Italian, nothing. It's just a name. And a great wine. Super Tuscan, shameless, take me to your meat eater.

Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red. The fireman says "Pretty notes of vanilla, blackberry, cherry and rose petals."

Rudi Schultz Syrah. Like a great second center (aka rugby player), graceful but strong.

De Toren: Some say this is Prince Charles' Fravorite wine. A Bordeaux blend, Fusion (WS 90) is their "Left Bank" Bordeaux. Definitely good bang for buck. See more South African Reds here.

Antinori Solaia. Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany. Full disclosure, not cheap. Not even close. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese (with a touch of Cabernet Franc), Solaia is all texture... soft, velvety and penetrating in the mouth. Sounds naughty and it is.

Dry Creek Vineyard The Mariner. A Bordeaux blend. WS 92 points: "Sleek, tight and focused."

White Burgundy

Out of Burgundy

"There are many ways to the recognition of truth" Isak Dinesin wrote, "and Burgundy is one of them." These are historic wines, and the best are unrivaled treats. Critics rhapsodize but get shy about comparisons. Restaurant goers love them but get a bit shy about the prices. Bargain hunters are often frustrated, but often not. So, what's the skinny on White Burgundy?

First, they make some of the most special, seductive, inimitable white wines in the world.

Second, they are expensive.

Third, they're not all expensive.

There are legends like Domaine Leflaive, Chevalier Montrachet and Domaine Jacques Prieur. If you want a top white Burgundy for under $300, Jancis Robinson believes the Marc Morey wines, made by his son in law, Bernard Mollard, are worth seeking out, as is Domaine Vincent Girardin to name just one of many very worthy mid-list contenders.

For a more modest sum (emphasis on "more" not "modest"), you can drink Puligny-Montrachet and Mersault, the standard bearers of the area. Some of the better known producers include Domaine Ramonet and Domaine Carillon

A bit further afield, just outside the communes of communes of Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune and Vougeot Guillemard-Clerc makes a Puligny-Montrachet "Les Enseigneres." Same great grapes, less pricey brand.


Abordables

The everyday can be pretty good too. As a general rule, avoid the ones that say Chardonnay or Bourgogne on the label. Here's where the Chablis and Petit Chablis find their place on your table, and deservedly so.

Some examples of affordable white burgundies:
Most Meursaults
Many Chablis and Petit Chablis
Domaine Thomas, St.-Veran (next door to Pouilly Fuissee)
Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles
Louis Latour Montagny "Les Buys"
Chateau de Mercey, Hautes-Cote de Beaune Blanc

...

Thanks Beekman Wines of NJ for the quote. More here.

Lesser Known French Regions

Lesser Known Means More Bargains

We live in a world dominated by brands. Even the land of wine isn't exempt from this force as elemenal as gravity but a whole lot more complicated. Just ask Mssrs. Rothschild and Coppola. Brand equity adds cost at the checkout counter. So lesser known brands--lesser known regions--have to exhibit more bang for buck. They try harder. Meanwhile, in France...

Cotes de Castillon
This Bordeaux satellite produces great wines and exceptional values. This wine drinks well now or can be cellared for several years. Robert Parker loves them, and with prices starting at around $10, there's a lot of room for exploration. They are in the softer Bordeaux style, which means more fruit, more merlot than some of the Bordeaux big boys. Beynat, one of our recommendations, is a St. Emillion style. But a good one. Supple, layered, balanced, a bit of gravelly licorice, a bit of cherry. Like many below, a very good value.
Try:
Beynat at around $13 a bottle.
Château d'Aiguilhe, Château Laussac or Clos Les Lunelles are higher price winners.
Chateau Le Plantey is supple and rich but not bold or brash, a balanced if unevolved St. Emillion style red.

Limoux
Another relatively new AOC, this one is around the town of Limoux an area in the Pyrenean foothills, not far from Carcasonne. The region's vineyards are higher and cooler than any other Languedoc-Roussillon appellation, and further from the influence of the Mediterranean. The red wines are made predominantly from Merlot (at least 50% of any AOC Limoux blend), so they're a bit lighter than the traditional Languedoc reds. The white wines are made from Mauzac, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, and vary widely in style.
Try:
Domaine de Baron'Arques (red)
Rives Blanques (white)








Cotes du Marmandais
Another Bordeaux satellite region, Cotes du Marmandais lies south of Bergerac and east of Bordeaux. The area, also known for its beefsteak tomatoes, is dominated by large co-operatives. But that doesn't mean the wine is bad or that all of it is co-op-made. Jancis Robinson is a big fan of Elian da Ros/Clos Baquey (interview here). Château Bazin is probably the region's best-know chateua. And a bargain (2005 still available) is Richard Premier, a quoffable wine with juicy red fruit bouquet. Party wine, not special occasion wine.
Read:
Un peu plus.

Vacqueyras
A shining star in the underappreciated Rhone region, which is home to some of the oldest vineyards in France. They were making wine here 2,000 years ago, around the time of the Roman conquest of France. So how bad can it be? Vacqueyras is rich and spicy with soft tannins. A good, complex, medium-priced wine that goes well with lamb or milder meat dishes. A distinctive blend, Vacqueyras contains Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, so they're not overwhelming. In fact, the one problem is they can get a bit shvach (weak, if you don't speak basic winemakers Yiddish).
Essayez:
Domaine Amouriers, Clos de Caveau, or Mas du Bouquet, a Tanzer fave, available at K&L.

Marsannay
Some say south of Dijon, others say north of Cote de Nuits. We say greater Burgundy. A new appelation, Marsannay got its stripes in 1987. Dry, flavorful, pinot noir. Made from old vines, but they like to be drunk young. Lesser known Burgundy addresses, like Marsannay (and Côte de Beaune) mean more drinkable prices. Around $13 and up. (Rosé lovers, Marsannay has the goods for you too.)
Try:
Bertagna, Bruno Clair.

Baux de Provence
Tucked between Provence and the Rhone, the rocky AOC Vallée des Baux de Provence makes big, round reds from Grenache, Cinsaut, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon. Otto says Ch. d'Estoublon is a beautiful and grand chateau, and the nearby rocks inspired Dante's visions of purgatory. The wines are kept very disease free by the Mistral. For this reason, pesticide use is less necessary than in other wine regions. As a result, this region has always had a large proportion of organic wine production, and is working on becoming the first entirely biodynamic appellation.
Try: Château d'Estoublon

Condrieu
Very popular in London these days, Condrieu is a highly regarded, hard-to-find wine and, most agree, the best white wine in Côtes du Rhône. The single grape variety used in Condrieu is viognier. The wines are full-bodied, rich in alcohol, friendly, interesting, just like a lovely lady. Condrieu exhales apricot, pear and almond aromas. From $40 and up (don't be surprised to pay $90 for one of the better labels).
Try: non Condrieu appelation viogniers, such as Côtes Du Rhône Blanc or Cuilleron's Viognier Vin De Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes. One standout, Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc gets 97 points in Wine Spectator and the rave " seductive... a masterful job of winemaking."
Try:
Domaine du Chêne @ Le Dû's Wines.

Saumur Champigny
Thank you friend of Wineline. Saumur Champigny is another great example. On the south bank of the Loire just up the river from Chinon. Mostly Cabernet Franc, the wines have nice dark berries and good minerality. One drawback, they can be too fruity and too light.
Regardez:
Clos Rougeard
Clos Cristal







And here's a lesser known white burgundy
Domaine de Roally Vire Clesse. "Light yellow-gold. Complex scents of lemon, orange, brown butter and lees, along with an exotic, musky mango quality." Try Sokolin.

Michelle, Anne... Vous travaillez? Er, non. Nous regardons un film d'espionage.

Here Comes the Sun

Finally, Spring has sprung. We're putting away the coats and sweaters and getting ready for grilling, chilling and wine glass refilling. Here are four faves.

Bubbly
Pink, bubbly and South African. Like Evita Bezuidenhout. Graham Beck Brut Rose is light with a hint of berry and just enough complexity, perfect for a warm evening. Try Empire Wine.

White
We love the fresh floral Viogner from Stags' Leap. It's flowery yet very dry, largely because the wine does not go through malolactic fermentation. More on Viognier here.

Medium Red
Fortinos Brothers Vineyards Pinot Noir is rich, luscious Sonoma Pinot. The family vineyard has been crafting the wine for a private label for three decades and is now bottling the wine under their own label. Special offer at Lot18.com.

Bigger Red
Dry Creek Vineyard The Mariner is a Bordeaux blend that is rich and supple, graceful and delicious. WS 92 points: "Sleek, tight and focused." Buy direct from the winery.

Viognier Va Voom

Luscious, floral, inviting, decadent. That's how a good Viognier tastes. It's a varietal that's been grown in France for ages but was used mostly as a blending grape. In France, Viognier is the single permitted grape variety in the appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet. It's also found its way into winemakers hearts around the new world, with strong Viogners coming out of the United States, Australia, and as far afield as Greece and Japan.

Tired of the dry summer whites? Looking for something a little richer but not over-oaked or cloying? Try a Viognier.

Generally the white wine is cluster pressed and fermented in oak without malolactic fermentation to preserve the delicate floral aromas and fruit characteristics inherent in the wine.

Grown in the northern Rhone Valley, relatively challenging to cultivate, this white grape's plantings were long limited to two appellations in the Northern Rhône - Condrieu, the better known of the two, and Château-Grillet. Condrieu became an AOC in 1940. There are only roughly 130 hectares of vineyards planted here with yields averaging 35-37 hectoliters per hectare, so there's very little wine produced. The wines are rich and complex, bursting with honeysuckle and apricot flavors. Guigal and Guy Bernard are two well-known. Intense and fruity, these wines go well with foie gras and afternoon sun. Domaine du Chene is another popular Viognier, the product of first-generation vignerons--and a spicy, medium-bodied Viogner with just a bit of spice and vanilla. Francois Villard "Le Grand Vallon" boasts 93 points from Wine Spectator ("blanched almond, papaya, pear and Jonagold apple is waiting in reserve. The long, juicy finish...") and is, unfortunately, pretty hard to find.

Elsewhere in France the wine is gaining popularity. Domaine de Triennes is a project in Provence that brings together two Burgundian winemakers in one Viognier. (Try NapaCabs.) Jean-Luc Colombo's Viognier La Violette is an example of the somewhat lighter, fresher, straw-colored Viogniers produced in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in Languedoc, à côté de Provence in southern France.

California makes some wonderful, aromatic Viogniers. Napa Valley bastions Stags' Leap Winery and Freemark Abbey both make a rich, ripe Viogniers that are nonetheless clean and not cloying. Stags' Leap new winemaker manages an almost austere minerality within a wine of figs and mango. Very seductive. Other Californian wineries are crafting excellent Viogniers. Alban from Central Coast is minerally, complex--and a Robert Parker favorite (WA 93 pts, WS 90 pts). Beautifully balanced and aromatic with a nose of sexy guava and mango but as crisp a heart (and every much an original American) as Madame Olenksa. Tanzer says: "Creamy in texture and impressively concentrated, with rich, ripe pit and tropical fruit flavors. This gets all over the palate." More from California Wine Report. (Buy it: In NYC try Sea Grape or K&D.) Denner, also from Paso Robles, makes another top American contender--honesuckle with strong minerality. Jaffurs from Santa Barbara is rich but clean, aromatic without being cloying. Crisp and smooth with just the right amount of acidity. Calera is another fine Central Coast viognier. And thank you WineLine reader for suggesting Bonterra, a Mendocino Viogner that won't break the bank.

In South Africa Avondale (pictured) makes a Viognier blend: Cyclus (60% Viognier grapes with the balance made up of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Semillon grapes). The Foundry also makes a succulent honeysuckley Viognier.

The Viognier Revolution is an Australian Viogner, smooth, ripe and concentrated, and a 90 pt favorite of Jay Miller. Yalumba makes a great, affordable Viognier. Yangarra is another excellent affordable Aussie option. (Try Sherry-Lehman). Heggies from Eden Valey Barossa is another excellent Austalian. Don't think haggis. And don't forget Yalumba, whose budget offering is crisp and worthwhile (and another Wine Spectator fave).

. . .

Gayot list of top Viogniers.

South African Syrah

South African Syrahs are a bit like the South African rugby team. Not as big as you think. Gentler than you think. Very good. Surprisingly dextrous. And I can't speak for the rugby team, but the wines are bargains.

They are different from Rhone blends, American or Aussie Syrahs. They're not majestic wines. They are spicy and muscular. But the South African Syrahs are generally well balanced and smooth, not overbearing. They will work well with steak. They drink well surprisingly young (and the wineries tend to hold on to them an extra year, so you get an extra year in the bottle). Add to this the fact that Syrah is out of favor right now and what do you have? A surprisingly good bargain red.

Here are a few of our faves:

Boekenhoutskloof
WS 93 pts. Smooth and spicy. "Broad, mouthfilling plum, currant and licorice notes, but stays well-defined and lively."

Chocolate Block (from Boekenhoutskloof)
Malmesbury Syrah, plus Cab and Merlot. Very balanced, very friendly. . Balanced, graceful, approachable. If the SA wines are a rugby team, this is your dependable center.
Try WineChateau.com.

The Foundry
Winemaker Chris Williams learned the ropes (vines) at Meerlust. A Joburg boy, he cites Giorgio Dalla Cia and Michel Rolland as his biggest influences. Nice guy, and knows what he's doing.

Glenwood
Franschhoek favorite. Sadly hard to find outside SA.

The Observatory
A bit of Carignane grape makes this one very distinctive.
Rich, elegant, good. 33 beans at WineBuys.

Onyx
Bargain from Darling, South Africa. 88 pts WS. Veritas bronze. Available at Astor in NYC.

Rudi Schultz
Classic, delicous SA Syrah, from the former Thelema winemaker. 91 points WE. It's balanced, nuanced but bold. Best bang for buck.

Rust En Vrede
Delicious Syrah, a bargain at under $20. Their Estate Stellenbosch Red is even better, a blend of Syrah, Cab and Merlot, which boasts a 93 point WS score and is "ripe and polished, with a superfresh core of red and black currant."

Sadie Family
Delicious Syrahs, including their Palladius and flagship Columella.


. . .


See our South Africa post.

Wine Anorak list here.

Piedmont

Forza Piemente! Lots of wines from Piedmont in northwest Italy. Lots of good wines. Some wine buyers get confused. A few simple rules...


Good Names

Most of the big guys make good wines of every stripe, from an every day Dolcetta to a big, special Barolo.


Barolo is the Bomb

The most famous grape in Piedmont is the noble Nebbiolo, which makes the long-lived Barolo and Barbaresco

A few names to look out for:
Baudanna
Brovia (Garblet Sue RP 95 pts)
Clerico (WS calls the Ciabot Mentin Ginestra "spectacular." Also try Pajana, which Piedmont review calls "potent, massive, super-ripe.")
Gaja (especially Sperss)
Vietti (especially Brunate and Rocche, WS 95 pts)

Food & Wine asks (and answers) "Is Barolo Still Italy's Greatest Wine?"


Carema is the Creme de la Creme

From the Carema DOC in Piedmont, this is a small area that produces a silky, gentle red, at least 85% Nebbiolo grapes. On the lighter, more graceful side, but nonetheless a Barolo by another name. Read the DoBianchi post and view a slideshow here.

Small region, not a lot widely available.
Luigi Ferrando is a good choice:
Empire Wine
Astor
Amanti
Orsolanti, a smaller producer, is also available in the US.


Dolcetto d'Alba

Dolcetto is a black wine grape variety widely grown in Piedmont. The name means "little sweet one," though it is nearly always a dry wine.

Brovia "Vigna Villej" (Available at PJ Wine and Astor)
Clerico Visadi (try it at Char No. 4)
Elio Altare


Barbera d’Asti

Poderi Alasia "Rive" (try at Gabriel's NYC)
La Spinetta Ca di Pian (the one with the rhino on the label) is good, affordable and, according to WA, "ripe and juicy, with harmonious acidity framing the dark fruit." Try Wine.com.

Arneis is Nice

Dry white made from the Arneis grape. Clerico, Vietti and other big guys make some of the best examples.


Nebbiolo Further Afield

While not exactly in Piedmont (in fact his area is about an ibex’s hoof south of Switzerland), Valtellina in Lombardy makes expressive Nebbiolo wine, like Ar Pe Pe. Wine merchants say "racy, light, and overflowing with perfume" and not too tannic. We say a good wine to drink young, like tonight.


. . .


Going There? Check out Forbes trip advisory.


Beyond Piedmont. Looking for an affordable smooth red from Sicily or Veneto?

A Few Unusual Italian Reds

Looking for a rich Italian red that won't break the bank? Try these wines from Veneto, Sicily and beyond.

Sicily: Cerasuolo Di Vittoria
Cerasuolo, Sicily
Cerasuolo Di Vittoria is a blend of Nero D'Avola and Frappato.
Try: Cos, Valle Dell'Acate, Planeta
This is a smooth, rich red with just enough flower and finesse.
Under $30 at Gotham Wines.
Can't get enough of Planeta? Check in for a session at the winery hotel and cooking school, la foresteria.

Veneto: Palazzo della Torre
Veneto makes Amarone, Valpolicella and other well-known Italian reds. We like Palazzo della Torre that uses Amarone grapes and methods for a easier-drinking, easier on the wallet wine. 70% Corvina , 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese. A portion of the fruit for this wine (30%) is left to air-dry on racks (Amarone-style). WA 89 points.
Try: Allegrini
"An irresistibly stylish wine... opulent, generous red is loaded with jammy dark cherries, chocolate, spices and sweet toasted oak." WA 90 points.
Around $16 at 67 Wines.

Tuscany: Il Bruciato
Okay, we haven't done a Tuscany post yet, but here's one Tuscan red we love that won't break the bank. Il Bruciato Guado Al Tasso Bogheri is a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah blend -- and the second wine of Guado al Tasso. The top wines from Bogheri are all winners, and so is Il Bruciato.
About $25 at NapaCabs.
More: Check out The New York Times and Cork Popper on Tuscany.

Tuscany: Tenuta Monteti
From the Tuscan coast, "Monteti" scores 93 points WA. Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot blend.
Around $26 at K & L Wines.

Friuli: Ronco Del Gnemiz Merlot
Mostly Merlot. Soft tannins, full bodied and structured. Strange name, great wine, a bit pricier than the others on this list, at around $70 a bottle. Rosso Del Gnemiz Ronco Del Gnemiz available at Morrell.

Umbria: Falesco Merlot
Looking for a less pricey Italian Merlot? Try Falesco Merlot Umbria, around $16 at Wine Chateau. More on Falesco from Wine90. Or Falesco Montiano from Latium, around $35 also at Wine Chateau.

Of course there's nothing wrong with the "on the beaten" path Italian reds. Like Montalcino and her Brunellos and Rossos (see Vinography article) and Piedmont and Barolo (our post).

Salute! Buon vino.

Spasso Opens in the West Village

Spasso just opened on Hudson Street in the West Village, on the corner where Alfama used to be.

The partners cut their teeth at L’Artusi and Convivio, and envision a casual spot with house wines on tap, regional selections, pastas of course, and how about roasted poussin with winter pazanella. The restaurant officially opened on December 29th.

551 Hudson Street, at Perry Street
212-858-3838

More from Grub Street.

Best Wines of 2010

Wine Spectator's Top 100

Number one: Saxum James Berry. Paso Robles, Central Coast. A Rhone-style blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah.

Number two: Two Hands, an Aussie Shiraz from the Barossa Valley.

Number six: Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley.

California wineries: 4 out of the top 5.

Lower cost: Zaca Mesa Syrah from Santa Ynez Valley, Bodegas Resalte de Peñafiel Ribera del Duero, CARM Douro Reserva (at $27), and Tamarack Firehouse Red Columbia Valley (at $16).

Take a look at the Top 100 List. Or download the PDF.


Food & Wine Best Wines of 2010

Food & Wine magazine editors choices of the best wines of the year.

Affordable winners: Two Syrahs... Parr from Santa Ynez and Man O'War from New Zealand.

Top French white: Alice et Olivier De Moor Chablis.

Fall in Napa Valley

Jack London slept there. They have an annual mustard festival. Robin Williams and Ray Manzarek live there, as do some of America's best wines and wineries. Fall is a great time to visit Napa and Sonoma. The Wineline crew just got back.

Highlights include:

• The weather
• Etude Cabernet (yup, not just for Pinot anymore)
• Christophe Paubert, the new winemaker at Stags' Leap, and his fresh, zesty Viognier
• Trefethen Chardonnay (Burgundy style)
• Private dinner at Stags' Leap Manor house
• Midday sun
• The lovely Danielle Cyrot and her her lovely St. Clement wines
• The architectural madness and Merlot goodness that is Darioush
• A ramble in Yountville

Where to stay? I like Bardessono Hotel in Yountville and Carneros Inn on the Sonoma Highway. Auberge du Soleil, Kenwood Inn, Solage Calistoga, Hotel Healdsburg and the Napa River Inn are other popular favorites.

> ArtInfo.com article.

> A gaggle of photos here.

Today's Shopping Cart: Ribera del Duero, Saumur

Researching a story for ArtInfo.com on Ribera Del Duero. Sherry-Lehman has Bodegas Emilio Moro's "Resolo" as well as their signature wine. And you can't go wrong with Finca Torremilanos. Nor can you go wrong asking the nice people at Tinto Fino in the East Village for a recommendation (hint, they like Capellanes and Pasquera). LA People, Woodland Hills has Capellelanes.

I also like Sherry-Lehman's Thierry Germain sampler. Bubbles, white and red, from Saumur. If you don't know Thierry, he's a Bordeaux dude who came to the Loire in 1991. The white is Chenin Blanc. The red Cabernet Franc, and it's got a nice balance of fruit and body, a small Burgundian nose and a bit more body than your average Saumur red. The sparkling “Bulles de Roche” wants you to have a party.

Calling Michel Rolland

I am drinking a strategic wine. Designed by a highly-paid world famous consultant, made in Bordeaux. And it's not a Chateau. Domaine Courteillac (this one's a 2007).

How is it? Great nose, medium tannins, a bit dense and thick, licorice, top of palate is a winner, then it thins, sours a bit, and disappears. It's--what's the word?--Bordeaux-y. Almost like there's a recipe. And therein lies the problem. It's too good, too much what customers seem to want in a budget Bordeaux. It's Wynton, but some of us want Miles. It's not a bad wine, but it's not a good wine.

Michel Rolland's client list is long and varied. From big buys in Bordeaux (Angélus, Ausone and Pape Clément), to Lapostolle in Chile, from Mondavi to Malbec to lesser-known wineriess like the Courteillac I'm drinking, to Staglin and Harlan, in Napa.

Of course Asimov has sized him up:
Asimov: We spoke about the rising level of alcohol in wines and the trend toward allowing grapes to ripen longer before they are harvested. The resulting wines are bigger and more opulent, with sweeter fruit, softer tannins and an absence of herbal flavors that were once commonplace in cabernet sauvignon-based wines. I mention Clos du Val and Corison, two Napa Valley producers whose wines adhere to a less upfront, more austere style, and Mr. Rolland is strikingly dismissive
Rolland: Wine is a business. They want to make wine to sell wine.

Ribera del Duero

Recently, Otto took a trip to Barcelona, and his favorite wine there was Ribera del Duero. The Wall Street Journal likes them too: "These are substantial wines and require substantial meals, from veal and peppers to steak. They will generally age beautifully for at least a few years." Skip the peppers, buy the wine.

Spain's fastest developing region, Ribera del Duero, lies halfway between Madrid and the coast as the crow flies, along a 69 mile stretch of the Duero river. The region boasts more than 250 wineries. Like Rioja and Priorat, Ribera del Duero enjoys the high status designation as a Denominacien de Origen Calificada (DOCa).

The terrain is flat and rocky. The main town is Aranda de Duero although the most famous vineyards surround Peñafiel and Roa de Duero to the west. The grape is Tempranillo, the climate continental-mediterranean. Hot summers, cold winters. This is the land of conquistadors and castles, and ruined fortresses punctuate the region's arid landscapes.

What is Roberto Parker's #1 wine under $100? Valdegatiles, a Ribera from Dominio Atauta. Other Ribera's of note include Pesquera, Capellanes and Vega Sicilia.

Gusto por favor:

Aalto
Abadia Retuerta Rivola
Alion
Arrocal (Bargain Parker fave; our for wine of the year 2007. Try Garnet)
Atalayas (Big, inky, muscular red from nearby DOCa Almansa. Winemaker spent time at Chateaux Mouton and Leoville Las Cases)
Astrales
Balbas
Cantos de Torremilanos (Another bargain Parker fave)
Cillar & Silos Torre Silo
Clos de l'Obac (95 pts WA; delicious, perfumed, lamb likes it, so does Vasiliou)
Condado de Haza (Tanzer says, "Juicy dark berry flavors and dark chocolate.")
Emilio Moro (high end winner and slightly more moderate Finca Resalso)
Legaris (Crianza)
Mibal
Pago de los Capellanes (Crianza, WS 93 points. Tinto Fino says, " Elegant, balanced.")
Pesquera (Parker calls it "the Petrus of Spain." WS 90 points... and try the Reserva, at K&L)
Protos (see below)
Quinta Sardonia (K&L says: "mixes gorgeous, precise red fruits with an earthy terroir.")
Raul Pérez "El Pecado" (from nearby Ribeira Sacra. "Ethereal," says Asimov. Try K&L)
Resalte de Peñafiel (WS 2010 top 100)
Torres de Anguix "Barrica" (a bargain)
"Valdegatiles" Dominio de Atauta ("Velvety, lush, seamless." Tanzer. Try Astor)
Vega Sicilia (pricey, awesome flagbearer)
Vina Pedrosa (WA 90 points, another Ribera bargain)
Vizcarra Roble

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Visiting:

Ribera del Duero is a great place to visit, full of history, great wine, beautiful countryside and great food. The area between Peñafiel and Quintanilla de Onésimo (including Pesquera de Duero and Valbuena de Duero) is considered Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile. The stunning modern Bodega Protos was designed by Richard Rogers. Pago de los Capellanes was designed by one of Spain's pre-eminent winery architects, Jesus Manzanares. Many of the wineries require a reservation, which you can do by email or phone.

Don't miss Peñafiel Castle, a XIV century castle which looks like an enormous stone. And once you are there, dine at the Restaurant Molino de Palacios, a converted flour mill. Continue on to Salamanca.

Read the Travel + Leisure wine tour article.

Bodegas not to be missed:
Atuata ("Valdegatiles" winery)
Protos (designed by architect Richard Rogers)
Pasquera
Emilio Moro

Más Información:

Nice Neighbor:
Sardon del Duero, like the bargain Abadia Retuerta. (Sardon del Duero is located in just outside the Ribera del Duero boundary line).
Where? Try Garnet Wines

Want White?
The Rueda, just west of Ribera del Duero, produces predominantly Verdejo whites, often with some Sauvignon Blanc blended in for good measure.

Eric Asimov article. Read the New York Times article. Read the LA Times article. Read the Bloomberg.com article.

See Wine Spectator Ribera microsite.

Buy: Try The Spanish Table in Berkeley, CA or Mill Valley, CA or online. And Tinto Fino in NYC's East Village (First Avenue).

Otto is planning on going back to Barcelona, Ribera and La Mancha soon. Suggestions, ideas welcome...