June 11, 2008

Paris Calling




When in Paris... drink wine!

Lavinia
3-5 bd de la Madeleine, 75001 Paris (tel 01 42 97 20 20)

Legrand Filles et Fils
1 rue de la Banque, 75002 Paris (tel 01 42 60 07 12)

Willi's Wine Bar
13 rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris (tel 01 42 61 05 09)

Juveniles
47 rue de Richelieur 75001 Paris (tel 01 42 97 46 49 )

Macéo
15 rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris (tel 01 42 97 53 85)

Caves Pétrissans
30bis ave de Niel, 75017 Paris (tel 01 42 27 52 03)

March 05, 2008

San Fran Wine Bars


San Fran Winebars


The city on the Bay has more wine bars per capita than any other American city. In every flavor, variety and neighborhood. Vino, Vidi, Vici.

Here are some of our favorites:

Amelie: 1754 Polk Street, 415-292-6916, www.ameliesf.com
District: 216 Townsend Street, 415-896-2120, www.districtsf.com
The Hidden Vine: 620 Post Street, 415-674-3567, www.thehiddenvine.com
Hotel Biron: 45 Rose Street, 415-703-0403, www.hotelbiron.com.
Ottimista: 1838 Union Street, 415-674-8400, www.ottimistasf.com
South Food + Wine: 330 Townsend Street, 415-974-5599, southfwb.com



September 28, 2007

Ribera del Duero







Recently, Otto took a trip to Barcelona, and his favorite wine there was Ribera del Duero. The Wall Street Journal likes them too: "These are substantial wines and require substantial meals, from veal and peppers to steak. They will generally age beautifully for at least a few years." Skip the peppers, buy the wine.

Spain's fastest developing region, Ribera del Duero, lies halfway between Madrid and the coast as the crow flies, along a 69 mile stretch of the Duero river.

In 2008, Ribera del Duero will join the ranks of Rioja and Priorat by receiving an upgraded status to Denominacien de Origen Calificada (DOCa).

What is Roberto Parker's #1 wine under $100? Valdegatiles, a Ribera from Dominio Atauta.

Gusto por favor:

Aalto
Abadia Retuerta Rivola
Alion
Arrocal (bargain Parker fave; our for wine of the year 2007) (Garnet)
Balbas
Dominio de Tares
Emilio Moro
Legaris (Crianza)
Pago de los Capellanes (Crianza)
Pesquera (WS 90 points... and try the Reserva)
Cillar & Silos Torre Silo
Torres de Anguix "Barrica" (a bargain)
Vega Sicilia (Ribera’s flag-bearer, not a bargain)
Valdegatiles (costoso)
Vina Pedrosa (WA 90 points, another Ribera bargain)

Also:
Sardon del Duero, like the bargain Abadia Retuerta. (Sardon del Duero is located in just outside the Ribera del Duero boundary line).
Where? Try Garnet Wines

Want White?
The Rueda, just west of Ribera del Duero, produces predominantly Verdejo whites, often with some Sauvignon Blanc blended in for good measure.

Read the New York Times article.

August 27, 2007

New York Wine Bars


New York Winebars


Wine bars and restaurants with good wine lists in NYC:

There's never been a better time for the wine bar in NYC. There are loads of them. Check out NY Wine Bar Guide for a complete list.

And here are some of our favorites:

Adour Alain Ducasse at the St. Regis New York. 2 E. 55th St., at Fifth Ave.; 212-710-2277

Bacaro. 136 Division St., between Orchard/Ludlow. 212-941-5060

Bar Boulud. 1900 Broadway, nr. 64th St.; 212-595-0303.

Bar Carrera, 175 Second Avenue between 11th and 12th Streets; 212-375-1555.

Bar Jamon, 125 E 17th St; 212-253-2773

Bin No. 220, 220 Front Street near South Street Seaport; 212-374-9463.

Bridge Vineyards Urban Winery. 20 Broadway, nr. Kent Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-384-2800.

(The Bar at) Etats-Unis, 247 E. 81st St., nr. Second Ave., 212-396-9928

Gottino, 52 Greenwich Ave nr Perry, 212-633-2590

Lelabar 422 Hudson St between Leroy and Morton, 212-206-0594
Good, if predictable, list. Good people, paninis, salad with figs, seat at the bar.

The Monday Room, 210 Elizabeth St (between Prince and Spring Sts), Public's teeny wine-bar sidekick.

Nizza. 630 Ninth Ave., nr. 45th St.; 212-956-1800.

Pasita. 47 8th Ave, bet Horatio & Jane St. W. Village posh pizza with great wine list. 212-255-3900
Great thin crust, plus lots of good Italian and Argentian wines. Si.

Peasant Wine Bar, 194 Elizabeth Street (down the stairs) between Prince and Spring Streets; 212-965-9511. Opens at 7 p.m.

Rouge Wine Bar, 99 Bank St (under Paris Commune): 212-929-0509
West Village wannabe.

Smiths, 79 Macdougal St., nr. Houston St (Trattoria Dante redux; Mermaid Inn Red Cat, and Harrison provenance) 212-246-3268
Good food, good wine. Cafe Dante next door for a canoli.

Solex. 103 First Ave., nr. 7th St. 212-777-6677

Stonehome Wine Bar. 87 Lafayette Ave (Portland), Fort Greene. 718-624-9443
Packed Fort Greene, hip and winester spot.

Terroir, 413 E. 12th St., nr. First Ave. 646-602-1300

Veritas; 43 E 20th St, 212-353-3700

Vintage New York, 482 Broome Street at Wooster Street. NY State wines only. 212-226-9463.

Vin Noir, 228 Mott Street between Prince and Spring Streets; 212-925-6647.

July 21, 2007

Bordeaux


Bordeaux

Angélus
St-Emilion
Full bodied St. Emillion (usually around 62% merlot).

Berliquet
St. Emilion
Rich, dark and decadent. Sweet, ripe plums and cream nose with a generous waft of vanilla/new oak. Fat and generous with silky, soft tannins. Jancis loves this one.

Carruades de Lafite
Pauillac
Second of Lafite Rotschild. Juicier, fresher, more merlot.

La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion
Pessac-Leognan
Second of Haut-Brion.

Chasse-Spleen
Moulis
Chateau Chasse-Spleen is the leading estate of Moulis, a small and easily overlooked commune on the left bank of the Gironde, sandwiched in the No Man's Land between St Julien to the north and Margaux to the south. Lots of blackberry and dark chocolate on the nose. Splenetic it is not.

Cheval Blanc
St-Emilion
Incredible richness of Cabernet Franc here, with blackberries and dark chocolate character. Not cheap. A 1995 sells for over $4K.

Clos du Marquis
St-Julien

Cos d'Estournel
St. Estèphe

La Croix de Beaucaillou
St. Julien
Second of Ducru Beaucaillou

Ducru-Beaucaillou
St. Julien

Les Fiefs de Lagrange
St. Julien
Opulent and fine second of Lagrange

Gaffeliere
St. Emilion
"Superb depth, brilliant precision...a phenomenal effort," says Parker.

Chateau Gloria
St. Julien

Gomerie
St. Emilion

Gruaud-Larose
St. Julien
Plummy aromas, with leaf and tobacco undertones. Medium-bodied.

Haut Bages Liberal
Pauillac
Dark, almost inky, intense aromas of cassis, mineral and light vanilla. Full-bodied with very well-integrated tannins and a long finish. WS 91 (2003)

Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan
Look for the pink foil. The 2005 gets rave reviews.

Lafite Rothschild
Pauillac
Big guy. Cool photos.

Lagrange
St. Julien
Parker loves the 2006.

Larcis-Ducasse
St. Emilion

Lascombes
Margaux
"One of the appellation’s up and coming stars..." (RP)

Latour
Pauillac
“Captivating, harmonious, electrifying…”

Léoville-Barton
"Powerful, superb concentration, loaded..." (cellar it for a while)
St. Julien

Léoville-Poyferré
St. Julien

Louviere
Pessac-Léognan

Lynch Bages
Pauillac
Rich, dense and ripe with black fruit flavors.

Margaux
Margaux
Lots of cab. Parker opines: “An elegant, seamlessly constructed effort…”

Mission Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan
Sibling/rival of Haut-Brion. Parker likes it better, and says of the 2006, “It is already thrilling to drink, although it is still very youthful Drink it over the next 25-30 years." 94 points WS.

Montrose
St Estèphe
Top of the second growth pops.

Mouton-Rothschild
Pauillac

Ormes de Pez
St.Estèphe
"Restrained... saturated... a sweet nose... fine flesh and good follow through." WA
(65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc)

Pagodes de Cos
St Estèphe
Second of Cos d’Estournel.

Palmer
Margaux

Pavie Macquin
St Emilion

Peyre-Lebade
Haut-Medoc
A Rothschild property

Pichon-Lalande
Pauillac

Sarget de Gruaud Larose
St. Julien
A Berry Bros. favorite

Smith Haut Lafitte
Pessac-Léognan
One of the classics. Medium bodied, sophisticated. Usually around 35% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.

St. Pierre
St. Julien


• • •



(Relative) Bargains

Lalande-Borie, St-Julien

Landes de Cach, Pauillac

Les Grands Marechaux (Cotes de Blaye) 91 pts WS

Les Ormes de Pez, St-Estephe, is full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long finish. 89 pts WS.

Malescot-St-Exupéry, Margaux

Mondorion, St-Emilion (From the new property of Patrick Leon, of Mouton family)

Pagodes de Cos, St-Estèphe (Second of Cos d’Estournel. "long, delicious finish. Very racy and linear." 91 Points WS.)

Pontet-Canet (Pauillac)

Puygueraud, Cotes De Franc (a tiny appellation tucked away next to St-Emillion) (WineLegend.com)

Reignac de Tizac (Parker fave)

Sarget de Gruaud Larose (available at K & L Wines and WineChateau.com)

St. Valery, St-Emilion


• • •



Is the 2005 Bordeaux vintage any good?

Robert Parker says: "I have never tasted so many extraordinarily rich, concentrated, massive wines so high in tannin and extract, yet with such precision, definition, and freshness. It is clearly a singular vintage that should evolve into one of the great vintages..."

"What an incredible vintage," says Jancis Robinson.


• • •


Bordeaux Wine Classification

IntoWine vintage chart

March 17, 2007

California Cabs



California Cabs

California boasts some of the best red wines in the world. Jammy, syrupy, luscious, bring your own thesaurus.

Here are some of our favorites:

... Around $20 ...
Alexander Valley Vineyards
Benziger Family Winery
Double T
Hayman & Hill
Mount Eden "Cuvee Saratoga"
Newton Claret
Oberon
Robert Goyette
Sequoia Grove
St. Clement Oroppas
Sterling
Twenty Rows
Wyatt

... $30 - 50 a bottle ...
Hanna
Heitz Cellars
Larkmead
Merryvale Reserve
Meyer Vineyard
Mount Eden
Napanook
Orin Swift "The Prisoner" (cab, zin blend)
Ramey Claret
St. Clement
Storybook Antaeus (Bordeaux style blend)
Trefethen

... $50 and up ...
Barnett Vineyards
Cliff Lede
Corison Kronos Vineyard
Dalla Valle
Duckhorn
Fantesca
John Anthony
Karl Lawrence
Mercury Head (Orin Swift)
Philip Togni
Rudd
Silver Oak
Silverado
Stag's Leap
Trefethen Library
Verite La Muse
Whitehall Lane Reserve
> See Wine News' Best Under $100

... $100 plus...
Bryant Family
Caymus Special Selection
Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cépages
Dalla Valle Maya
Diamond Creek
Dominus
Harlan
Martin Ray Diamond Mountain
Quilceda Creek (Columbia Valley, WA)
Screaming Eagle
Switchback Ridge
Von Strasser

... Yeah, we know it's not California, but ...
Woodward Canyon and second label Nelms Road, Walla Walla, Washington
Amavi and Robert Parker favorite Quilceda Creek also Washington winners

... And a warning...
If you've got $10 to spend and are in a hurry, you might want to look elsewhere, like Spain or Argentina.

February 06, 2007

Priorat


Priorat


A fabled wine with a long and interesting history, Priorat (or Priorato) hails from sacred soil, has a rich history and a fairly flexible recipe that results in a wide variety of wines. They're all rich, dark, inky, big, flavorful. They all contain Granache. And the rest is art and science.

The Catalans call it Priorat, most others say Priorato, and the region has become something of a cult wine producer, thanks to the special soil, called llicorella, made of a brown slate mixed together with rocks. Mountains surround the area and the vines are tended by hand.

Priorats are based on Garnacha (Grenache), and produce inky wines with intense fruit flavors of blackberry and plums, not to mention a required minimum of 13.5% alcohol. The wines are big in all factors. The secondary grape of the region is Carinena (Carignan in France). This grape has lost favor in most parts of the world but here in Priorat, it’s a welcome addition to the Garnacha based wines. They can also contain Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mazuelo and Syrah.

Some of our favorites:
Alvaro Palacios, Les Terrasses
Clos Erasmus is one of the very best
Laurel (no Hardy) is almost half Cabernet Sauvignon. WA 91 points. Second label of Clos Erasmus, a mid-range winner
Mas d'En Gil
Mas Doix is Robert Parker's high-end fave
Mas Perinet is M. Le Du's mid-range choice
Pasanau: Ceps Nous around $20 a bottle, La Planeta around $50 (WS 93 points)
Rotllan Torra is organic and good, from $16 to $80
Vall Llachs: a range from $30 "Embriux" which means “bewitching” to the eponymous high-end dazzler.

Montsant:
A relatively new Spanish wine DO (denomination ), Monstant forms a horseshoe around Priorat, but the wines here have a clear identity of their own. We're still doing our research, but so far we're underwhelmed. The Wineline panel concludes, for now, that they lack the sophistication and depth of Priorats, have a simpler, smugger, more fruit-forward style. So far we say: buy the low end Priorats instead, even though Montsant is cool, some big-name critics dig them and many of the labels are nifty.

December 08, 2006

Spanish Reds


Spanish Reds

Vamanos. Spanish reds are great, varied, good value.


RIOJA

We love rioja. At the low-end they're dependable, at the higher ends, they're interesting, complex, some of the best wines out there.

Low:
Don Roman. Rich, intense fruit, syrupy. Available at Morrell.

Medium:
Allende, a cultish winner from a talented, original winemaker. Available at PJ Wine. WA 93 points.
Artadi Artazu ''Santa Cruz de Artazu" also good.
Artadi Rioja Vinas De Gain: A Tanzer favorite and a winner for under $25. Tanzer: 91 points.
Remelluri: The winery and town have a rich winemaking history that predates the romans. PJ Wine calls it "suave... sophisticated, elegant."

High:
Artadi Pagos Viejos Rioja. "Wild, pungent aromas of red and dark berries, candied cherry..." Tanzer: 94 points


RIBERA DEL DUERO

Hola Ribera. On the Duero River, they craft fine wines.

See Ribera post.


COSTA BRAVA

Believe it or not, they make big, generous, lush wines on the Costa Brava. One of them is Sinols Coromina, made from 40 to 60 year old cariñena vines, available at Astor.


PRIORAT

Priorats can be great. From sacred soil, mostly grenache, always inky, ripe, rich. Rotllan Torra is one of our favorites with a winner at around $16 and a knock-your-socks-off Tirant for $80 or so. Mas Doix and Clos Erasus are renowned favorites that open the imagination and empty the wallet.


MONTSANT

Think second label Priorat. (The Montsant wine region of Spain was created in 2001 when the larger Priorat region was broken in two; Montsant is shaped like a doughnut that encircles what is now called Priorat.) That means: good value. The blend is mostly Grenache with Syrah. Dense and layered, wild berry character tinged with smoky notes, soft tannins.

We like: Cellers Unio Perlat, Capcanes Montsant Mas Donis (both around $10)


OTHERS

Castel Del Remei Segre Gotim Bru is a $10 favorite. Tanzer: 90 points.

Venta Mazzaron is deep ruby colored, medium bodied and elegant. Ruby, stone, just a hint of fruit. (Made from Tempranillo, Spain’s quintessential, indigenous grape -- the same grape as Rioja). From the Toro region, northwest of Rueda, near Valladolid. Parker gives this $10 wine 90 points and raves, "Medium-bodied and elegant, with wonderful sweetness, plush tannin, and a long, pure finish." Claro.

October 07, 2006

White Rioja




In Praise of White Rioja



White riojas are like good country songs. The elements shouldn’t add up—too sappy, too twangy, a wine that is fruity, Christ they even have discernable oak—and yet you like them. A good (and even moderately priced) white rioja opens with bouquets of fruit with a hint of something denser (sherry, honey) in the back of the nose. And they have the fruit and the flower and that bit of gravelly, honey-ish depth. One suggestion: take them out of the fridge after you open them. Unlike, say, sauvignon blancs, they don’t like to be too cold. And that’s one reason they’re winter whites.

Damn, the Spanish know what they're doing. White Riojas are mostly Viura and they sometimes add Malvasia (and possibly some other grapes). As with Priorat, the regions winemakers tinkered and improved. Top wineries such as Allende, Palacios Remondo, Conde de Valdemar and Muga have pioneered a style that combines some of the freshness of youth with late picking and barrel fermentation to produce wines with more weight and concentration. Some of them also blend Malvasia with Viura to add perfume and interest.

Allende - two Blancos, both good. Of Finca Allende, Berry Bros say: "Beautifully perfumed with a ripe citrus palate that has been rounded out by lees stirring." (Available at ShoppersWines.com).

Basa Bianco - "It reveals abundant fruit, beautiful crispness and a zesty personality. Terrific value. Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, Viura." WA

Gravonia Crianza - 100% Viura. Pale gold color. Wine & Spirits magazine: 90 points to the 1995. "The deep gold color and spicy, oat biscuit scent shows the heavy influence of oak on this wine. The flavors follow suit, scented with vanilla and jasmine, honey and beeswax. This is maturing with grace, an older Rioja to serve with suckling pig". Tanzer 89 points. WS 89 points: "This lovely version of a traditional white is ethereal yet intense, with delicate almond, beeswax, floral and dried pear notes. It's mature, but definitely not tired. Drink now through 2008."

Muga - the low end winner. Elegant, lively, complex... a bit of oak, a bit of tobacco, a bit of citus, with clean fruit on top.

Oro De Castilla Verdejo - "Elegant, with notes of white peaches, honey, and citrus offered in a flavorful yet zesty style," says Wine Legend. WA 89 pts.

Ostatu - low yield (and low cost) good wine. Fermented in stainless steel.

Remelluri - was contributing wine to the town council of nearby Labastida in the 15 th century – one of the earliest references to a bodega in Spain. Today, the 100ha estate situated in the Western corner of the Rioja Alavesa between the Tolono mountain range and the River Ebro, is one of Rioja's most prestigious and most sought after. Rebmulluri Blanco blends Malvasia and Viura along with the more exotic Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, this weighty yet elegant white.

Tondonia - one of the world's greatest wines. Tanzer gives the "Gran Reserva" 90 points. "At once penetrating and suave, with lovely subtlety and cut. Strong minerally note of lead pencil. Quite fine and adamantly dry; still evolving. Very long, ethereal back end.”

Remondo ''Placet''--"When Spanish-wine star (and prodigal son) Alvaro Palacios returned to his family's Rioja bodega in 2000, he began turniong out impressive bottlings like Palacios Remondo Plcet, a peachy white made from Spain's Viura Grape." Food & Wine Magazine

. . .

(See "The Observer Article").

September 15, 2006

American Merlots



American Merlots

No, Miles didn't kill Merlot

Overlooked? Undiscovered? Yes. And if one movie has quelled demand, then consider yourself lucky... and go out and get some..

Atalon - Napa - Parker gives 89 points to this "sweet perfume."

Avignonesi - Merlot Desiderio - NapaCabs.com says, "Ripe black berry fruit, sandalwood, cinnamon, and vanilla." WA 94 Pts.

Barnett Vineyards - Napa - Rich, intense, blended with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Blair Estate - A small, family owned winery making consistently good Merlots (and other wines). This one happens to be a bargain.

Burgess - Napa - Rich and deep. A relative bargain.

Byrd Cooper - Napa - From the Neyers folks.

Cakebread Cellars - One of the stalwarts. Complex, well made, the height of great American Merlot.

Darioush - Beautifully complex and syrupy. The Wall Street Journal's "Tastings" column raved: "This was the single most memorable wine from our trip to Napa and Sonoma tasting rooms last summer and the best Merlot we tasted all year."

Duckhorn - Another big gun. Here's what the winemaker says: "The flavors are dominated by ripe berry, plum, and raspberry complemented by toasty oak, caramel, and vanilla." Wine Spectator says 90 points of the 2002.

Hedges "Three Vineyards" - Another Washington winner. 90 points Wine Enthusiast.

Leal Vineyards - Food & Wine named them one of the 20 best new wineries in 2004 extolling their Syrah. We like this San Benito county winery's Merlot, crafted by a former fencing contractor and an ex-mechanic.

Liparita - An almost perfect Napa Merlot. Rich but not too big, syrupy, smooth, complex but friendly. This wine will hug you, seduce you and give you a kiss goodnight. Goodnight Liparita. Wine Spectator, Editor's Pick 2001 Merlot.

Matanzas Creek - Good not great. The winemaker waxes about "melted toffee notes that complement the rich bouquet of black fruits."

Nelms Road/Woodward Canyon - Both the first and second label of this Walla Walla (Washington) winery are juicy, fruit forward winners. Nelms Road was a recent Food & Wine winner "Best Wine under $20."

Neyers - Pedigreed Californian. Also known for their Syrah. Plus Byrd-Cooper, French style Merlot.

Rancho Sisquoc - From Santa Barbara. Edward Robinson's favorite.

Paumanok - Long Island, yes Long Island.

Pride Mountain Vineyards - "An openly seductive style, with ripe currant, blackberry and wild berry fruit shaded by splashy mocha, espresso bean and oak flavors. It’s complex and concentrated, but also quite tannic, so if you pull the cork tonight, decant an hour," says James Laube, Wine Spectator. WS 93 points. RP 92 points. ($60 plus).

Rombauer - Balanced, dense, mocha and ripe plum. A winner at around $27. (Thanks to Watershed, new favorite Atlanta restaurant).

Selene - Napa. Thanks for writing in, HS.

Shafer - Good, expensive.

Sherwood House Vineyards - Another Long Island winery. WS 88 points. Under $20.

Trefethen - A classic American merlot: big, ripe, deep, rich, round. (San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition winner).

Twomey - Another robust Napa Valley contender, from the Silver Oak gang. WA 91-93 points.

Verite - Top of the line. If you're feeling flush. Bordeaux style micro-crus. All score well above 90 points with Parker, Tanzer and their ilk.

Whitehall Lane - Good, bang for buck.

September 14, 2006

Ten Dollar Wines



Ten Dollar Wines



Ten dollah. Can't be done.
Sure it can.
Like wot?
Like these...
I can't pay ten dollah. I'll pay ten dollah.

(Apologies if they're a bit over $10. Hard to keep track exactly).

Anakena - Rapel Valley, Chile. They make everything.

Beynat, Cuvee Leonard - from Cotes de Castillon, which is next to Bordeaux. This is one of Sherry-Lehman's unsung heroes of Bordeaux, and it's worth a song or two. (See "Lesser Known French Regions" post).

Blair Estate - Napa. Merlot. Good.

Borsao - Spain. Mostly granache. Cherry red, deep and sweet. We like Tres Picos Borsao. Robert Parker gave the 2004 a rave and 91 points. This if full-throttle, big bodied stuff, not for the faint of pallette. Try Wine Legend.

Canyon Road - California. Born as Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton restaurants' private label, then the winery decided to take it public. The sauvignon blanc is especially good for the price.

Cetena - Argentina. Fresh, minimally oaked, citrusy chardonnay that's hard to beat for the price. See "Don't Cry for Argentina" post).

Conde de Valdemar - Crianza, Spain. A smooth Rioja that balances balance ripe Tempranillo fruit with just enough oak.

Domaine de la Solitude - Rhone red and white. The white is mostly viognier, delicious, crisp with surprising finesse. The red, says Astor Wines, is "full of sweet black fruit, silky smooth with a touch of smoky oak."

Echeverria - Chile. Both the blackberry Cab and the flinty unoaked Chardonnay are well made, balanced bargains. The Carmenere took two trophies in the 2005 Annual Wines of Chile Awards.

Fontanafredda Barbera "Briccotondo" - Piemonte, Italia. 90 points Wine Spectator and one of their Top 100 Wines of 2007: "Very plummy and grapey on the nose, with hints of chocolate..." At K & L Wines.

Gouguenheim - Argentina. Valle Escondido, made near Mendoza. Not as good as Cetena, but another Argentine winner.

Grüner Veltliner - Austria. Put some umlaut in your cellar. Minty, mineraly. Think summer afternoons.

Guigal - Rhone. Côtes-du-Rhône is great, dependable. His expensive wines are pretty great too.

Ludovicus - Terra Alta, Spain. Vinos Piñol is organically farmed, bottled unfiltered. A blend of Grenache, Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Opulent flavors of kirsch liqueur, licorice, and pepper. WA 90 points.

Mano a Mano - La Mancha (no kidding), Spain. Suspect label. Good wine. 100% Tempranillo. NoMerlot.com has this to say: "Medium to full-bodied, rich, well-rounded and full of dark fruit flavors, backed by firm tannins. The wine is made in a modern style with lots of fruit flavors up front, yet maintains a distinctively Spanish style."

Manta Sauvignon Blanc - Central Valley, Chile. A zesty, citrussy, possibly too bright white for hot summers day. Serve chilled. Kick soccer ball. Nap.

Chateau Picau Perna - St. Émilion, France. Astor Wines says, "This merlot-based Red offers all the elegance and plummy fruit that you want in a Bordeaux. You'll also find a touch of a touch of fresh herbs, soft tannins and an elegant finish." Try PJ Wines.

Pichon - Herault, France. A bargain viognier. Astor Wines says, "rich and round white wine with its aromas of peaches and pears." Not exactly a single vineyard, and not as good as Domaine de la Solitude, but a worthy wine for the price.

Pillar Box Red - Barossa, Australia. A rich blend of shiraz, cab and merlot. Parker gave the 2004 a glowing 90 points. Available at Wine Legend and K & L Wines.

Raymond R Collection - Napa. Big, fruit-forward, well-structured Merlot.

Rioja - R for reliable. Better in the $12 to $15 range.
Reds:
Don Roman is the Otto Zappatore favorite (available at Morrell. yes, more than $10).
See "Spanish Reds"
Whites:
Try Muga, Basa Bianco, Cune Monopole. Greene Grape recommends Senorial. (We haven't tried it yet).
See "White Riojas"

Santa Rita Chardonnay - Another Chilean darling. It's so not buttery, it's almost green. "On the palate, it is fresh and sweet; medium bodied, juicy and refreshing," says 67 Wine in NYC.

South African sauvignon blancs - Yes, the less expensive ones are still great. Like Steenberg and Sincerely are both good values. (See "South African Sauvignon Blanc" post).

Chateau Thebot - Bordeaux. The 2001 is another Sherry-Lehman unsung hero. They say, "A great value in good, solid, everyday Bordeaux. This unfiltered blend dominated by Merlot is a fine Bordeaux that exhibits intelligent winemaking and loads of fruit in an accessible style."

Tres Picos - Spain. Deep and sweet, this Borsao is made from old vine Grenache vineyards that cling to rugged terrain on the slopes of the famous Moncayo mountain. Available at PJ Wine.

Tuttobene, Angelini - San Leonino, Tuscany, Italy. A "Forbes Favorite" that Wine Spectator calls "an outstanding new wine." A low cost winner from Tuscany, the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci. Think juicy, blackberry, chocolate and soft tannins. Bad name; cool label.

Vega Sindoa - Navarra, Spain. Another Spanish winner from Bodegas Nekeas. Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo blend. Tanzer opines: "Deep red. Fresh, mineral-tinged cherry and blackcurrant aromas complicated by flowers and spices."
Try NJ WineStore.

Venta Mazzaron - Toro, Spain. Tempranillo, Spain’s quintessential, indigenous grape. Parker is bullish on this one.

Verdejo - Never mind vendetta, V is for Verdejo. Light, crisp, citusy, a dash of sauvignon blanc.

Vermentino - Italy. Light, fresh, lemony whites from Italy. Argiolas, La Cala and other Sardinian producers are a good bet.

Viogner - Mostly France, now all over the place. Anything with "viognier" on the label. Okay, not anything, but a lot.

Yalumba - Australian for wine. Chardonnay and Grenache both worthy. (See "Good Down Under" post).

Zolo - Argy bargain.

A few rules to bear in mind:

  • Don't trust the nice man in the store.

  • Don't buy the bottle with the nice label.

  • Vintage means just about bugger all when it comes to $10 bottles of wine.

  • Being from Bordeaux or Napa or Italy makes it less, not more, likely that the $10 wine will be a winner. You'll do better with a Rhone, Cahors, Rioja.

  • Discounts push the price down... buy a case, or shop when your local store has a sale.

July 28, 2006

Chardonnay



Chardonn-Oy



Or is it Chardon-NAY. Some say Chardonnaise. Rhymes with malaise.

"ABC" (Anything but Charonnay) is oft heard in restaurants and bars. And verily the worst ones, that motley crew of butter-top, oak-down-to-the-balls offenders are truly plonk.

That said, there are two worthy types of Chardonnay. Low and high.

Low (to Medium) Chardonnay...
... is not expensive (duh); none of them has anything to do with butter; in fact, some are brutally unoaked, surprisingly pale in color and bright, sharp, clean.
Cetena, Argentina -- Clean, flinty, tasty. As Borat says, "Aaah like."
Echeverria, Chile (best buy)
Firestone, Napa
Gouguenheim Valle Escondido, Argentina -- Like the museum, only different.
Grand Res Bien Nacido, Napa
Kali Hart, Napa
Yalumba, Australia
Wente, Napa

High Chardonnay...
... is expensive and nothing like the cheap stuff, or a Chablis or white Burgundy.
Gary Farrel, Napa -- Veddi, veddi nice
Hyde, Napa -- Food & Wine goes bonkers for this one
Merryvale Reserve Chardonnay, Carneros
Roche Carneros Estate
Trefethen, Napa -- French style (pronounced "not melotactic soup")


(Extra Credit) What winemakers study...
Major commercially available strains for induction of malolactic fermentation in wine were examined for arginine metabolism in a resting cell system at wine pH with the aim of evaluating their ability to excrete and utilize citrulline, a precursor of carcinogenic ethyl carbamate (urethane). All strains tested excreted citrulline from arginine degradation. Citrulline was stored intracellularly during growth in arginine rich medium and was released upon lysis of the cells. All strains were found to degrade citrulline as a sole amino acid and some of them were able to reutilize previously excreted citrulline.

June 02, 2006

Argentina and Chile


Argentina, Chile



Not the new kids on the block anymore, Chile and Argentina are producing very good wines at various price points. James Benjamin swears by them. So do all Argentinians. With good reason. Though it pays to be particular. A whiz-bang, throw-them-in-the-cart approach will bear bad fruit. But choose carefully and you've got a cellar's worth. One problem: I've had trouble finding some of the more expensive ones.

Caro
Rothschild & Catena is a joint venture of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Nicolas Catena. Good pedigree. Good wine.

Catena Chardonnay
Great, everday Chard. Comes without a lot of oak or butter, but rounded, balanced, complex, hints of flowers and citrus. The finish is fresh yet persistent, with bright, crisp acidity. Claro.

Catena Cabernet Sauvignon
Rich, concentrated and sophisticated. 19 months Taransaud barrel-aging, whatever that means.

Catena Malbec
"Appealing yet timid aromas of black fruits are found in the nose of the 2003 Catena Malbec. There are 25,000 cases of this fresh, focused wine. Redolent with red as well as black fruits and violets, its personality is medium-bodied and expressive."
- Pierre Rovani. The Wine Advocate

Domaine Paul Brono
Coming soon... to a high-end store near you. In the Andean foothills near Santiago, Paul Pontallier, director of Château Margaux, and Bruno Prats, retired proprietor of Château Cos d'Estournel, are developing a 48-acre vineyard in an old apricot and walnut orchard; they call it Viña Aquitania. With Winemaker Felix de Solminihac, a third-generation Chilean of French descent, they are growing cabernet sauvignon, merlot and carmenère, and plan to plant petit verdot and syrah. The new wine will be called Domaine Paul Bruno.

Domus Aurea
Brainchild of veteran Chilean Winemaker Ignacio Recabarren. Supposedly VFG.
Available at WineChateau.com and 67 Wine in NYC.

Luca Syrah
Laura Catena's new breed of Argentine wines: small quantities, artisan quality, cutting-edge technology.

Manta Sauvignon Blanc
From the Central Valley, Chile. A zesty, citrussy, possibly too bright white. You decide. At $8 a bottle, you can't go too wrong. Available at Astor Wines.

Santa Ema 2001 Catalina Rapel Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Cabernet Franc. This is a solidly built version with raspberry, boysenberry and currant fruit coursing along ripe, sweet tannins and powered by chocolate and toast notes. Round, rich, powerful finish. WS 90 points. (Available at Whole Foods, Napa Cabs)

Santa Rita Triple C
Another Chilean saint. Not cheap (around $50). A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère. WE 91, WS 90.

Seña
Well-bred, for sure, the offspring of Mondavi and Chile's Viña Errazuriz.

Zolo
Mendoza, Argentina. Try the bargain Malbec and crisp sauvignon blanc.

With approximately 200,000 hectares under vine, Argentina is the fifth largest wine producer in the world after France, Italy, Spain and the USA. Argentina has approximately 2000 wine producers but less than 10% of these companies export to international markets.

March 20, 2006

New York Wine Tasting



New York City File: Wine Tastings...



A wealth of wine tastings in different neighborhoods, at different prices.

67 Wine
Near Lincoln Center, 67 Wine has tastings on Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons.

Aroma
After work, three wines and antipasti (things like marinated calamari, stuffed clams, bruschetta, tuna crudo) are $15 at Aroma, 36 E. 4th [Bowery/Lafayette] 212.375.0100, every Tuesday to Friday, 5pm-7pm.

Astor Wines
In-store tastings from time to time. And Astor Center features wine and cooking classes and tastings.

Bacchus
Bacchus, 2056 Bway [70th/71st] 212.875.1200. Often has one-hour tastings, usually one winery.

Burgundy Wine Company
Burgundy lovers already know about the Burgundy Wine Company, 143 W. 26th [6th/7th] 212.691.9092, but you might not know about their informal evening wine tastings, 5pm-7pm Monday - Friday (and Saturdays too), where you can hear some jazz, try some wines, have a little cheese, and schmooze with the staff.

Chelsea Wine Vault
The guys in Chelsea market offer in-store tastings and classes.

Heights Chateau
Heights Chateau. 123 Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. 718.330.0963. Tastings on Saturday afternoons.

Instituto Cervantes
Instituto Cervantes offers various tastings, all with renowned (and nice) experts. Spanish wine. Duh.

Is Wine
Is Wine offers free tastings of featured wines, every Saturday at 4:00 p.m. 225 E 5th Street. 212.254.7800.

Local Wine Events
LocalWineEvents.com provides a listing of all types of wine events around NYC. Sign up for "The Juice" newsletter.

Le Dû's Wines
Le Dû's Wines, 600 Washington [Leroy/Morton] 212.924.6999. M. Le Dû was the head sommelier at Daniel for a decade. The store is beautiful, with plenty of elbow room, they've got the really good stuff, but also some terrific under-$20 bottles. Loads of events, lots of tastings, knowledgeable staff. Look for tastings on Saturday afternoons.

Morell
Morrell, One Rockefeller Plaza has afternoon tastings Wednesdays through Fridays. Special events and tastings, also at the store, offer more elaborate wine tastings, vertical tastings and occassional cheese pairings.

Sea Grape
Sea Grape Wines, 512 Hudston Street 212.463.7688. Tastings on Thursday evenings. Nice, knowledgeable staff.

----------------------

NY Mag

Dr. Vino's map of NYC wine stores

----------------------

Thanks to Manhattan Users Guide. And thanks to Eric W. and Jenny Bird.

March 18, 2006

American Second Labels


American Second Labels



Okay, I confess. I like second labels. At the top of the range, they’re some of the best wines you’ve never heard of. In the affordable realm, they’re dependable wines made by good winemakers. As one winemaker explains, “If you like a three-star restaurant, chances are you’ll like the bistro they open next door.”

Don't believe me? Try Karl Lawrence and Philip Togni's well-crafted seconds, or Double T, a balanced, very quaffable wine from Trefethen. For the price, you can't go wrong with Manzanita Canyon or Glass Mountain.

Here’s a list to start exploring. Prices range from $7 to $40.

Mother Winery (2nd Label)

Beringer (Napa Ridge)
Burgess (Bell Canyon)
Caymus (Liberty School)
Ch. Montelena (Silverado)
Cuvaison (Calistoga Cellars)
Cartlidge & Brown (Manzanita Canyon)
Darioush (Caravan)
Dominus (Napanook)
Duckhorn (Decoy)
Hestan (Meyer) (WS 92 pts)
Karl Lawrence (Aldin)
Markham (Glass Mountain)
Mondavi (Woodbridge)
Monticello (Jefferson Cellars)
Neyers (Byrd Cooper)
Mount St. John (Poppy Hill)
Opus One (Overture)
Philip Togni (Tanbark Hill)
Raymond (Amberhill)
Round Hill (Rutherford Ranch)
Sebastiani (Talus)
Sequoia Grove (Allen Family)
Schramsburg (Mirabelle)
Stag’s Leap (Hawk Crest)
Talbott (Kali Hart)
Trefethen (Eschol)
Trefethen (Double T)
White Rock (Madigan)

March 03, 2006

They're All Good


They're all good.



There are not many infallible rules in wine. Not all Bordeaux are good. There aren't entire decades you should look out for. Australia doesn't make crap wine. Screwcap means absolutely nothing. For those in need of a few good rules, here are a few we stand by:

Big Guns
As Eric says: They're the best for a reason. Petrus, Latour, Dominus, Verite, Romanee-Conti, d'Yquem, Margaux, Ducru-Beaucaillou... pick the big gun that you like and, presto, all good. In good years the wine is ecstasy, in bad years it may fall to simply wonderful.

Brunellos
Supple, ripe, just enough sweetness, texture fine tannins. Stuff like that.
Try: Livio Sasseti Pertimali or Collosorbo.

Burgundy
My Dad and I had a contest. Desert island wine. If you could only drink wine from one region. Burgundy wins. Especially if the gods or demons of your desert island are footing the bill.

Grüner Veltliner
Plus, you sound like you know what you're talking about, even if you only manage to pronounce it correctly.

Montecucco
Damn tasty wines which under the newly minted denomination of Montecucco (across the way from Montalcino in greater Tuscany). Rosso, Riserva, Bianco Sangiovese and Vermentino are a happy family. Only problem: your local shopkeep might not stock them. [Props to Maremma restaurant for introducing us].
Try Ciacci Piccolomini's Rosso di Montecucco at Chambers Street Wines or Wine Legend in New Jersey. More on Ciacci P here.

Rioja
R for Reliable.
Try: Don Roman at Morrell.

Rosso di Montalcino
Some say Baby Brunello. $20 and up in the store, makes-the-meal $50 in a restaurant.
Try: Collosorbo, Banfi
Read: "The Other Montalcino".

Sauvignon Blanc
Crisp whites. The world needs crisp whites.

Viogner
From complex to merely crisp without oak or sourness, they're all, well, good, bom, bon, buono, gut, ii desu ne.

February 09, 2006

South Africa



South African Wines



Some of our favorites:

Anwilka Red (2005 was the first vintage of this Cab/Syrah pedigreed newcomer. Klein Constantia and Cos d’Estournel hands. Parker loves it.)
Beyond (second of Buitenverwachting, easier to say)
Bien (single vineyard, merlot only)
Boekenhoutskloof Wolftrap (50% Syrah, 48% Mourvedre, 2% Viognier)
Bouchard Finlayson
Buitenverwachting (means "Beyond Expectations")
Chamonix Sauvignon Reserve (Jancis fave)
Columella
Constantia Uitsig (whites)
Fairview (whites)
Foundry (91 point WS Syrah and Double Barrel blend)
Glenwood (especially the Shiraz)
Hamilton Russel (worthy Pinot Noir and try their Chardonnay too)
Kadette (second of Kanonkop)
Kanonkop (reds)
Ken Forrester (Chenin Blanc)
La Motte
Meerlust (Cabernet and Merlot)
Neil Ellis
Rudi Schultz (Rudi was the Thelema winemaker; Syrah WS 93 points)
Rust En Vrede (WS 90 points)
Simonsig (Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc)
Solms Delta (Hiervandaan red blend)
Springfield
Stony Brook (especially the Ghost Gum Cabernet Sauvignon)
Thelema
Vergelegen
Vrede and Lust



Where to buy:


In New York, try Sherry-Lehman and 67 Wine for Simonsig, Fairview, Neil Ellis and other SA favorites

Glenwood and others are available (when in stock) at Southern Hemisphere Wine Center


More:

See Sauvignon Blancs post

Wine Magazine: the local mag

John Platter: the bible of South African wine


January 21, 2006

Australia & New Zealand



Good Down Under

Australia's wines can be difficult to navigate. The good ones are expensive, the bad ones are bad, and Yellow Tail is the worst thing to happen to wine since phylloxera. So, what's to love about wines from Down Under? Some winners, though not the aisle I'd go running to every time.

Akarua:
Otago calling... with a pinot noir that's sorta Frenchy, kinda fancy, and silky. Lika lady.

Amisfield:
NZ Pinot. Sidney Int'l Wine Competition Award Winner 2007.

Be My Babich:
A good Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough New Zealand. WS 90 points. Crisp, straw-ish, nettle-y, clean. As many New Zealand SBs do, it errs on the side of a bit too much tropical fruit. In this case peach. Others have too much grapefruit, too much wheatgrass. They make a nice smoky Pinot Noir too.

Bleasdale, Please Dale:
Cab from Langhorne Creek, of which Tanzer says, "Silky and sweet, with inviting dark berry preserve flavors." With their Beverly Hillbilly-style labels and "Australian Red Trophy" from the London International Wine Challenge, there's a lot to like about these boys. Otto finds it a bit too fruit-forward, grape jelly tasting. (buy it)

Cape Mentelle:
Another Margaret River winner. From one of the leading producers of the cooler climate reds. Straight Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab/Merlot blend (which includes a dash of Cabernet Franc and some Petit Verdot for good measure.

Clarendon Hills:
Robert Parker 92 points: "Clarendon Hills' red wines are about as decadent and rich as red wine can get." Not for the faint of heart or coffer.

Glaetzer:
Another Barossa Valley winner, Wallace is a Rhone style Shiraz/Grenache blend. WA 93 points. A great value at around $18 a bottle. (Try NapaCabs.com or TheWineBuyer.com). High end Godolphin is a Shiraz/Cabernet blend.

Hare's Chase:
Hare's Chase Barossa Blend gets a Roberto Parker thumbs up of 89 points. 70% Shiraz with squirts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Dainty it is not, mate. What it is is a smart very New World blend, slightly on steroids,but well built nonetheless. It's lively, fresh, layered with no hard edges, no rough tannins. A Sea Grape selection.

Hewitson:
Hewitson Old Garden Mourvèdre, Barossa Valley. Dense, dark, and packing a punch of savory flavor and ripe tannins. Give this lengthy wine 2-3 years to unfurl.

Massale Mama:
Kooyong "Massale" Pinot Noir. 90 points Stephen Tanzer: "Medium red... tightly focused... Lush, round and supple on the palate, the red and dark fruit flavors showing lovely sweetness and concentration.

Mt. Difficulty:
Another winning Otago Pinot Noir.

Penfolds Five:
Penfolds Grange: The peak in price and taste. Graceful yet muscular, a very well crafted wine. Some say this is Australia's best wine. Created by Max Schubert, the grandpere of Australian wine, it's a Shiraz lover's dream. $ a lot (and not ready to drink for quite a few years).
Penfolds Kalimna Bin 28: Called "Baby Grange" also designed by Max Shubert. Not Crocodile Dundee's steak chaser. A bargain at $20 or less.
''St. Henri'' Shiraz. $45.
Penfolds Bin 138 Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre: 2002 collected the trophy for “Best Lighter Bodied Dry Red Table Wine” at the presentation banquet in Sydney on Saturday 5 March 2005.
Cabernet-Shiraz South Australia Bin 389: Claret-style, berries and velvet. $25. WS 89 points.
Speaking of Shiraz mate, look at Glenwood from South Africa. (Shh, yeah, that's not Australia).

Paringa:
Hat and cattle.

Ring Bolt:
From the cooler Margaret River region where they make a softer, more elegant style of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cassis and currant, great nose, well balanced. Another Sea Grape Aussie. 2004 not as dense as earlier years, but still good. Available at Sea Grape and Wine Access.

Sherwood Forest:
Robin Hood likes their Pinot, which is concentrated, plummy, balance.

Rosemount:
Rosemount makes some good low-cost contenders.

Talking Turkey:
Turkey Flat Turk Red from Barossa, half Shiraz, with Mourvedre, Grenache, and a scoop of Cabernet Sauvignon. WA 90 points. Available at Wine Legend.

Ay, Yalumba:
Grenache: Australia is the Texas of the wine world. Everything is bigger, stronger. This grenache is bold and rich.
Hand Picked Tri-Centenary Grenache: Same, only better.
Hand Picked Mourvedre-Grenache-Shiraz: Robert Parker gave the 2003 91 points.
Unwooded Chardonnay. $10 a bottle. The unwooded chardonnay is a good guy. This one loves you.
Octavius Shiraz. WA 97 pts. The jewel in Yalumba’s crown.

Yellow Tail:
Great for marketing case studies. But you wouldn't want to drink a bottle.

. . .

Sydney International Wine Competition. Good recommendations, ugly site.

Southern Wines So. hemisphere specialists.

The Jug Shop Specialist purveyor.

Yes, they do use Mourvedre outside Australia. Like in Provence and Bandol. Cline, from Contra Costa, makes one too.

Hello Layton. Nice wine, mate. Knock it in.

January 17, 2006

South African Sauvignon Blanc



South African Sauvignon Blanc




A recent New York Times article called Steenberg one of the best wine values out there. "Crisp, fresh, zesty and balanced, with unexpected depth," cooed The New York Times. It's a good wine. And at about $8 a bottle, a great bargain. At $11 a bottle, Wine Spectator favorite Buitenverwachting second label Beyond is a better wine. The point is they're almost all good, with varying degrees of crispness, grassiness, a touch of melon, green apple, or grapefruit here and there. Serve chilled.

Good South African Sauvignon Blancs, some with bigger price tags:
Anura -- from Paarl. Everything you want it to be (buy it)
Buitenverwachting -- Dry but not sour, plus a name that's fun to say
Buitenverwachting second label Beyond -- Crisp with grapefruit nose and taste -- WS 88 pts
Neil Ellis -- Clean, elegant and refreshing
Steenberg -- Would the NYT lie to you? Good, but on the boring, mass-produced tasting side.
Thelema -- Aromatic and so friendly it almost hugs you
Warwick -- Goosebery-wrapped density
Fairview -- Clean, steely
Sauvignon Republic -- Wth a name like that, right? Stellenbosch and Russian River. Fun taste test.
Simonsig -- Soft tropical fruit, clean finish
Springfield -- Crisp, melony
Stony Brook -- If you can get it

A couple to avoid:
Fairvalley -- or rather mediocrewine
Amani -- can't trust a bottle with an embossed square coin
Indaba -- as in the song, "Indaba is doo doo, Indaba is doo doo"

Where:
  • In New York, try 67 Wines for Fairview, Neil Ellis and other SA favorites


  • More:
  • Wine Mag,South Africa's Wine Magazine is well written and trustworthy
  • December 15, 2005

    Lesser Known French Regions




    Lesser Known French Regions



    We live in a world dominated by brands. Even the land of wine isn't exempt from this force as elemenal as gravity but a whole lot more complicated. Just ask Mssrs. Rothschild and Coppola. Brand equity adds cost at the checkout counter. So lesser known brands--lesser known regions--have to exhibit more bang for buck. They try harder. Meanwhile, in France...

    Cotes de Castillon
    This Bordeaux satellite produces great wines and exceptional values. This wine drinks well now or can be cellared for several years. Robert Parker loves them, and with prices starting at around $10, there's a lot of room for exploration. They are in the softer Bordeaux style, which means more fruit, more merlot than some of the Bordeaux big boys. Beynat, one of our recommendations, is a St. Emillion style. But a good one. Supple, layered, balanced, a bit of gravelly licorice, a bit of cherry. Like many below, a very good value.
    Try:
    Beynat at around $13 a bottle.
    Château d'Aiguilhe, Château Laussac or Clos Les Lunelles are higher price winners.
    Chateau Le Plantey is supple and rich but not bold or brash, a balanced if unevolved St. Emillion style red.

    Vacqueyras
    A shining star in the underappreciated Rhone region, which is home to some of the oldest vineyards in France. They were making wine here 2,000 years ago, around the time of the Roman conquest of France. So how bad can it be? Vacqueyras is rich and spicy with soft tannins. A good, complex, medium-priced wine that goes well with lamb or milder meat dishes. A distinctive blend, Vacqueyras contains Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, so they're not overwhelming. In fact, the one problem is they can get a bit shvach (weak, if you don't speak basic winemakers Yiddish).
    Essayez:
    Domaine Amouriers or Clos de Caveau.

    Marsannay
    Some say south of Dijon, others say north of Cote de Nuits. We say greater Burgundy. A new appelation, Marsannay got its stripes in 1987. Dry, flavorful, pinot noir. Made from old vines, but they like to be drunk young. Lesser known Burgundy addresses, like Marsannay (and Côte de Beaune) mean more drinkable prices. Around $13 and up. (Rosé lovers, Marsannay has the goods for you too.)
    Try:
    Bertagna, Bruno Clair.

    Baux de Provence
    Tucked between Provence and the Rhone, the rocky AOC Vallée des Baux de Provence makes big, round reds from Grenache, Cinsaut, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon. Otto says Ch. d'Estoublon is a beautiful and grand chateau, and the nearby rocks inspired Dante's visions of purgatory. The wines are kept very disease free by the Mistral. For this reason, pesticide use is less necessary than in other wine regions. As a result, this region has always had a large proportion of organic wine production, and is working on becoming the first entirely biodynamic appellation.
    Try: Château d'Estoublon

    Condrieu
    Very popular in London these days, Condrieu is a highly regarded, hard-to-find wine and, most agree, the best white wine in Côtes du Rhône. The single grape variety used in Condrieu is viognier. The wines are full-bodied, rich in alcohol, friendly, interesting, just like a lovely lady. Condrieu exhales apricot, pear and almond aromas. From $40 and up (don't be surprised to pay $90 for one of the better labels).
    Try: non Condrieu appelation viogniers, such as Côtes Du Rhône Blanc or Cuilleron's Viognier Vin De Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes. One standout, Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc gets 97 points in Wine Spectator and the rave " seductive... a masterful job of winemaking."
    Try:
    Domaine du Chêne @ Le Dû's Wines.

    Saumur Champigny
    Thank you friend of Wineline. Saumur Champigny is another great example. On the south bank of the Loire just downstream from Chinon. Mostly Cabernet Franc, the wines have nice dark berries and good minerality. One drawback, they can be too fruity and too light.
    Regardez:
    Clos Rougeard

    Michelle, Anne... Vous travaillez? Er, non. Nous regardons un film d'espionage.