Lesser Known French Regions

Lesser Known Means More Bargains

We live in a world dominated by brands. Even the land of wine isn't exempt from this force as elemenal as gravity but a whole lot more complicated. Just ask Mssrs. Rothschild and Coppola. Brand equity adds cost at the checkout counter. So lesser known brands--lesser known regions--have to exhibit more bang for buck. They try harder. Meanwhile, in France...

Cotes de Castillon
This Bordeaux satellite produces great wines and exceptional values. This wine drinks well now or can be cellared for several years. Robert Parker loves them, and with prices starting at around $10, there's a lot of room for exploration. They are in the softer Bordeaux style, which means more fruit, more merlot than some of the Bordeaux big boys. Beynat, one of our recommendations, is a St. Emillion style. But a good one. Supple, layered, balanced, a bit of gravelly licorice, a bit of cherry. Like many below, a very good value.
Try:
Beynat at around $13 a bottle.
Château d'Aiguilhe, Château Laussac or Clos Les Lunelles are higher price winners.
Chateau Le Plantey is supple and rich but not bold or brash, a balanced if unevolved St. Emillion style red.

Gascongne

They make a lot of wine here -- red, white and rose. In the Gers region, they produce mostly white wine, often with the Ugni Blanc grape (which sounds a bit like French sushi). Domaine la Salette is one example, Pujalet is another. They're low cost, nice, crisp, interesting wines. Minerality without too much lime or fruit of any kind. Definitely a worthy summer wine alternative. 

Limoux
Another relatively new AOC, this one is around the town of Limoux an area in the Pyrenean foothills, not far from Carcasonne. The region's vineyards are higher and cooler than any other Languedoc-Roussillon appellation, and further from the influence of the Mediterranean. The red wines are made predominantly from Merlot (at least 50% of any AOC Limoux blend), so they're a bit lighter than the traditional Languedoc reds. The white wines are made from Mauzac, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, and vary widely in style.
Try:
Domaine de Baron'Arques (red)
Rives Blanques (white)








Cotes du Marmandais
Another Bordeaux satellite region, Cotes du Marmandais lies south of Bergerac and east of Bordeaux. The area, also known for its beefsteak tomatoes, is dominated by large co-operatives. But that doesn't mean the wine is bad or that all of it is co-op-made. Jancis Robinson is a big fan of Elian da Ros/Clos Baquey (interview here). Château Bazin is probably the region's best-know chateua. And a bargain (2005 still available) is Richard Premier, a quoffable wine with juicy red fruit bouquet. Party wine, not special occasion wine.
Read:
Un peu plus.

Pic St Loup
20 km inland from Montpellier it lies in the foothills overlooking the plain (the haut garrigue) and has established itself as one of the premium red wine regions in the Languedoc.
Principal grapes: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Other varieties in the blend: Carignan and Cinsault.
Recommendations from WineLoversPage.
More from WineAnorak.com.


Vacqueyras
A shining star in the underappreciated Rhone region, which is home to some of the oldest vineyards in France. They were making wine here 2,000 years ago, around the time of the Roman conquest of France. So how bad can it be? Vacqueyras is rich and spicy with soft tannins. A good, complex, medium-priced wine that goes well with lamb or milder meat dishes. A distinctive blend, Vacqueyras contains Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, so they're not overwhelming. In fact, the one problem is they can get a bit shvach (weak, if you don't speak basic winemakers Yiddish).
Essayez:
Domaine Amouriers, Clos de Caveau, or Mas du Bouquet, a Tanzer fave, available at K&L.

Marsannay
Some say south of Dijon, others say north of Cote de Nuits. We say greater Burgundy. A new appelation, Marsannay got its stripes in 1987. Dry, flavorful, pinot noir. Made from old vines, but they like to be drunk young. Lesser known Burgundy addresses, like Marsannay (and Côte de Beaune) mean more drinkable prices. Around $13 and up. (Rosé lovers, Marsannay has the goods for you too.)
Try:
Bertagna, Bruno Clair.

Baux de Provence
Tucked between Provence and the Rhone, the rocky AOC Vallée des Baux de Provence makes big, round reds from Grenache, Cinsaut, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon. Otto says Ch. d'Estoublon is a beautiful and grand chateau, and the nearby rocks inspired Dante's visions of purgatory. The wines are kept very disease free by the Mistral. For this reason, pesticide use is less necessary than in other wine regions. As a result, this region has always had a large proportion of organic wine production, and is working on becoming the first entirely biodynamic appellation.
Try: Château d'Estoublon

Condrieu
Very popular in London these days, Condrieu is a highly regarded, hard-to-find wine and, most agree, the best white wine in Côtes du Rhône. The single grape variety used in Condrieu is viognier. The wines are full-bodied, rich in alcohol, friendly, interesting, just like a lovely lady. Condrieu exhales apricot, pear and almond aromas. From $40 and up (don't be surprised to pay $90 for one of the better labels).
Try: non Condrieu appelation viogniers, such as Côtes Du Rhône Blanc or Cuilleron's Viognier Vin De Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes. One standout, Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc gets 97 points in Wine Spectator and the rave " seductive... a masterful job of winemaking."
Try:
Domaine du Chêne @ Le Dû's Wines.

Saumur Champigny
Thank you friend of Wineline. Saumur Champigny is another great example. On the south bank of the Loire just up the river from Chinon. Mostly Cabernet Franc, the wines have nice dark berries and good minerality. One drawback, they can be too fruity and too light.
Regardez:
Clos Rougeard
Clos Cristal







And here's a lesser known white burgundy
Domaine de Roally Vire Clesse. "Light yellow-gold. Complex scents of lemon, orange, brown butter and lees, along with an exotic, musky mango quality." Try Sokolin.

Michelle, Anne... Vous travaillez? Er, non. Nous regardons un film d'espionage.