January 12, 2007

Spanish Red

Vamanos. Spanish reds are great, varied, good value.


RIOJA

We love rioja. At the low-end they're dependable, at the higher ends, they're interesting, complex, some of the best wines out there. How about a bike tour through Rioja!

Low:
Don Roman. Rich, intense fruit, syrupy. Available at Morrell.


Medium:
Allende, a cultish winner from a talented, original winemaker. Available at PJ Wine. WA 93 points.
Artadi Artazu ''Santa Cruz de Artazu" also good.
Artadi Rioja Vinas De Gain: A Tanzer favorite and a winner for under $25. Tanzer: 91 points.
Remelluri: The winery and town have a rich winemaking history that predates the romans. PJ Wine calls it "suave... sophisticated, elegant." And say: "Readers looking for a Rioja that could pass for a high-class Pomerol should check out the 2001 Remelluri." Also try JJ Buckley. WA 94 points.

High:
Artadi Pagos Viejos Rioja. "Wild, pungent aromas of red and dark berries, candied cherry..." Tanzer: 94 points

Read Skewcap column on Rioja.


RIBERA DEL DUERO

A relative newcomer, the D.O. only became official in 1982. High altitute, good terroir and a special microclimate go into the Tempranillo-based wines (like Rioja) from this area. While they're predominantly Tempranillo, they can throw in a bit of Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Garnacha Tinta to add balance and depth.

We like: Abadia Retuerta Rivola, Dominio de Tares (Robert Parker gives both 90 points), Emilio Moro, and Bodegas Alion.

See Ribera post.

See Wine Spectator Ribera microsite.


LA MANCHA

From the province of Almansa, between Alicante and Valencia, comes at least one worthy Spanish newcomer.

Bodegas Atalaya is a blend of Garnacha, Monastrell and Tempranillo. Silky, supple, good depth, a bit of licorice, big but graceful. 91 points WA, Tanzer. Wine Spectator: "This solid red adds intriguing mineral and licorice notes to a core of ripe plum fruit and chocolate oak. Firm tannins are balanced by lively acidity. Nicely put together." At under $15 a bottle, it's a great deal.

More from IntoWine.com.

Try Union Square Wines or K&L.


TORO

Numanthia Toro. Tempranillo . "Massively rich, intense, vivid." WA: 98 points


BIERZO

Bierzo Petalos. 100% Mencia (a black grape of coastal Atlantic origin). Great label. WE: 91 points.

Bierzo Pago de Valdoneje. Accessability, balance, bargain.

See Bierzo post.


COSTA BRAVA

Believe it or not, they make big, generous, lush wines on the Costa Brava. One of them is Sinols Coromina, made from 40 to 60 year old cariƱena vines, available at Astor.


PRIORAT

Priorats can be great. From sacred soil, mostly grenache, always inky, ripe, rich. Rotllan Torra is one of our favorites with a winner at around $16 and a knock-your-socks-off Tirant for $80 or so. Mas Doix and Clos Erasus are renowned favorites that open the imagination and empty the wallet.

See Priorat post


MONTSANT

Think second label Priorat. (The Montsant wine region of Spain was created in 2001 when the larger Priorat region was broken in two; Montsant is shaped like a doughnut that encircles what is now called Priorat.) That means: good value. The blend is mostly Grenache with Syrah. Dense and layered, wild berry character tinged with smoky notes, soft tannins.

We like: Cellers Unio Perlat, Capcanes Montsant Mas Donis (both around $10)
See Priorat post


OTHERS

Castel Del Remei Segre Gotim Bru is a $10 favorite. Tanzer: 90 points.

Venta Mazzaron is deep ruby colored, medium bodied and elegant. Ruby, stone, just a hint of fruit. (Made from Tempranillo, Spain’s quintessential, indigenous grape -- the same grape as Rioja). From the Toro region, northwest of Rueda, near Valladolid. Parker gives this $10 wine 90 points and raves, "Medium-bodied and elegant, with wonderful sweetness, plush tannin, and a long, pure finish." Claro.

Squared 3 by Winery Arts, around $20

From Ribera del Queiles a small appelation north of Rioja,a blend of 49% Garnacha, 30% Merlot and 21% Tempranillo. The wine is aged for 14 months if both French and American Oak barrels. Elegant aroma of ripe dark fruit and spices. Although robust, the finish is smooth with notes of ripe fruit and minerals which give the wine a balance and lasting finish. Great everyday wine. In London try Salusbury Wine Store, in NYC try 67 Wine.

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