In Praise of White Rioja
White riojas are like good country songs. The elements shouldn’t add up—too sappy, too twangy, a wine that is fruity, Christ they even have discernable oak—and yet you like them. A good (and even moderately priced) white rioja opens with bouquets of fruit with a hint of something denser (sherry, honey) in the back of the nose. And they have the fruit and the flower and that bit of gravelly, honey-ish depth. One suggestion: take them out of the fridge after you open them. Unlike, say, sauvignon blancs, they don’t like to be too cold. And that’s one reason they’re winter whites.Damn, the Spanish know what they're doing. White Riojas are mostly Viura and they sometimes add Malvasia (and possibly some other grapes). As with Priorat, the regions winemakers tinkered and improved. Top wineries such as Allende, Palacios Remondo, Conde de Valdemar and Muga have pioneered a style that combines some of the freshness of youth with late picking and barrel fermentation to produce wines with more weight and concentration. Some of them also blend Malvasia with Viura to add perfume and interest.
Allende - two Blancos, both good. Of Finca Allende, Berry Bros say: "Beautifully perfumed with a ripe citrus palate that has been rounded out by lees stirring." (Available at ShoppersWines.com).
Basa Bianco - "It reveals abundant fruit, beautiful crispness and a zesty personality. Terrific value. Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, Viura." WA
Gravonia Crianza - 100% Viura. Pale gold color. Wine & Spirits magazine: 90 points to the 1995. "The deep gold color and spicy, oat biscuit scent shows the heavy influence of oak on this wine. The flavors follow suit, scented with vanilla and jasmine, honey and beeswax. This is maturing with grace, an older Rioja to serve with suckling pig". Tanzer 89 points. WS 89 points: "This lovely version of a traditional white is ethereal yet intense, with delicate almond, beeswax, floral and dried pear notes. It's mature, but definitely not tired. Drink now through 2008."
Muga - the low end winner. Elegant, lively, complex... a bit of oak, a bit of tobacco, a bit of citus, with clean fruit on top.
Oro De Castilla Verdejo - "Elegant, with notes of white peaches, honey, and citrus offered in a flavorful yet zesty style," says Wine Legend. WA 89 pts.
Ostatu - low yield (and low cost) good wine. Fermented in stainless steel.
Remelluri - was contributing wine to the town council of nearby Labastida in the 15 th century – one of the earliest references to a bodega in Spain. Today, the 100ha estate situated in the Western corner of the Rioja Alavesa between the Tolono mountain range and the River Ebro, is one of Rioja's most prestigious and most sought after. Rebmulluri Blanco blends Malvasia and Viura along with the more exotic Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, this weighty yet elegant white.
Tondonia - one of the world's greatest wines. Tanzer gives the "Gran Reserva" 90 points. "At once penetrating and suave, with lovely subtlety and cut. Strong minerally note of lead pencil. Quite fine and adamantly dry; still evolving. Very long, ethereal back end.”
Remondo ''Placet''--"When Spanish-wine star (and prodigal son) Alvaro Palacios returned to his family's Rioja bodega in 2000, he began turniong out impressive bottlings like Palacios Remondo Plcet, a peachy white made from Spain's Viura Grape." Food & Wine Magazine
. . .
(See "The Observer Article").
. . .
Other Spanish Whites
There are a lot of other great Spanish whites, including Verdejo, Albarino, and the slightly effervescent Txakoli from the Basque region.
Try:
Ermita de Nieve (Verdejo)
Bodegas Martin Codax (Albarino)
Gurrutxaga (Txakoli)
