Bierzo

BIERZO

Rural and remote, lush and beautiful and pretty well unknown, Bierzo is the kind of region wine lovers dream of discovering. Northwest Spain near Portugal, this verdant DO in northwestern Spain, sometimes called 'the gateway to Galicia,' was virtually unheard of a decade ago. Yet today this former Roman mining area has a promising future as one of Spain's new wine hotspots. It's a region where mineral-rich slate soils, a continental climate, and intrepid winemakers have come together to create some truly memorable red wines.

Take for example the winechild of two Spaniards, the scion of a Priorat family and a cousin who just happend to be holding a cool few hectares in Bierzo. The scion jumped at the opportunity when his cousin Ricardo was starting a new winery in Bierzo. Their result: Palacios Petalos del Bierzo ("Petalos" for short) is a well-crafted a wine dark purple but not overpowering, with a nose of dark fruit. Soft tannin, a lingering finish, goes with anything. 91 points WA and WE.

The Mencía grape is the star in Bierzo, where it occupies nearly two-thirds of the vineyards. A variety cultivated almost solely in northwestern Spain (especially in the Galician DOs- appellations- Valdeorras, Monterrei, and Ribeira Sacra), Mencía has only recently come into its own as a respected grape variety. In good hands, it reveals fresh fruity notes, smooth tannins and an enviable reflection of the minerally terroir. Although known as a wine that shows very well in young, fruity wines, some Bierzo producers are proving that with the right balance of oak it can also age well. Other grape varieties planted in Bierzo include Garnacha Tintorera, Godello, Doña Blanca, Malvasía, Palomino and, in experimental quantities, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo.

The vineyards themselves are among the most beautiful in Spain. Many are planted in picturesque terraces along the steep slopes of the Sil river valley, some with such marked inclination that mules are used for the harvest. The soils range from alluvial near the riverbed, to rocky and slate-filled on the higher slopes. The vineyards, which are planted at elevations of up to 1000 meters, enjoy moderate rainfall and, thanks to the mountains that protect them from the whims of the Atlantic, a relatively mild climate.

The heart and soul of Bierzo is Cacabelos, a buzzing market town and important stop along Spain's legendary pilgrim's route, the Camino de Santiago (St. James Way, the Pilgrimage that takes place every year and culminates in Santiago de Compostela). Although the wine business is centered here, this pretty riverside town is hardly Bierzo's only attraction. Large towns like Ponferrada and Vilafranca del Bierzo tempt with Templar castles, medieval monasteries and once-extravagant palaces; while the smaller wine hamlets of San Roman Bembibre, Arganza and Corullon seem hardly touched by time.

Wines to Try
Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo "Petalos" WA: 92 pts (Sherry, Chelsea, WineLegend)
Dominio Tares
Prada a Tope
Bodegas Estefania, Castro Ventoso, Bodega del Abad,
Paixar (a winery run by the sons of legendary winekaer Mariano García)
Castro Ventosa, El Castro de Valtuille
Pago de Valdoneje (a Sherry-Lahman best buy)