Red Burgundy

Burgundy has it all. Well, except a lot of bargains. At the top end (La Tache and its siblings) are, well, fuggedaboudit. At the top of the heap are some of the most famous wines in the world -- and with good reason. Rich, dramatic, complex. If Roger Federer were a wine, he'd be a pricey red Burgundy.

The problem is there are very few bargains. Wine Library's never-timid Gary Vee captures the problem of the lesser burgundy wines: "light, very thin, like Lindsay Lohan thin..." He's speaking about Santenay but it applies to many of the lesser, lighter Burgundy reds, which he describes as "disjointed and awkward." Not exactly what you want in a $40 wine.

What's a boy to do? Sure, there are options. (a) Spend a bit more. (b) Look and shop very hard and taste a lot. Or (c) buy not-Burgundy red burgundy wines. For starters, there are pinot noirs from the world over that will please even the most ardent Burgundien. And then there's next-to-burgundy-not-burgundy. For example, the winemakers from Julienas and other nearby appelations (technically Beaujolais) are making bigger, Burgundy-style wines. The prices are good, the wines rich if not deep, and some like, Close de Haute Combe boast prizes and medals dating back to 1872.

Here are some relatively affordable red Burgundy:

Jancis Robinson recommends: Burgundy Bargains
David Croix (Beaune Rouge)
Moreau-Naudet (Petit Chablis)
Vincent Dancer (Meursault)
Jean-Baptiste Ponsot (Rully Rouge)
Read the FT article.

Also see: The New York Times: Red Burgundy Topic.

Aloxe Corton. Try Chaillots, Domaine d'Ardhuy at K & L (where you can still find 2005).

Chassagne-Montrachet. Better known for their pricey whites, the reds, like Domaine Blain-Gagnard, are good value.

Beaune. Clos de la Mousse = Christmas day on 10th Street. Les Perrieres.

Nuits St. Georges. These wines are traditionally ruby, smoke, ripe and delicious. Parker likes Domaine Chicotot. Also try Domaine Des Perdrix and Domaine Heresztyn at Le Du's Wines and Perrot Minot available at Wine Library.

Volnay A good Volnay is a wonderful wine. Like Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Clos des Chênes.$55 at Le Du's Wines.


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