November 10, 2012

South African Syrah



South African Syrahs are a bit like the South African rugby team. Not as big as you think. Gentler than you might expect. Very good and surprisingly dextrous. And we can't speak for the rugby team, but the wines are bargains.

They are different from Rhone blends, American or Aussie Syrahs. They're not majestic wines and they aren't designed to hit you over the head. They are spicy and muscular, but the South African Syrahs are generally well balanced and smooth, not overbearing. They will work well with steak. They drink well surprisingly young (and the wineries tend to hold on to them an extra year, so you get an extra year in the bottle). Add to this the fact that Syrah is out of favor right now and what do you have? A surprisingly good bargain red.

A good wine for winter. A good wine for steak, boerewors and grilled meats.

Here are some of our faves:

Boekenhoutskloof
WS 93 pts. Smooth and spicy. "Broad, mouthfilling plum, currant and licorice notes, but stays well-defined and lively."

Boschkloof
Stellenbosch winery. "Very classy wine with a full and spicy nose... expressive and well defined." (WineTimes.co)

Chocolate Block (from Boekenhoutskloof)
Malmesbury Syrah, plus Cab and Merlot. Very balanced, very friendly, rich and approachable. If the SA syrahs are a rugby team, this is your dependable center. Try WineChateau.com.

The Foundry
Winemaker Chris Williams learned the ropes (vines) at Meerlust. A Joburg boy, he cites Giorgio Dalla Cia and Michel Rolland as his biggest influences. Nice guy, and knows what he's doing.

Glenwood
Franschhoek favorite. Sadly hard to find outside SA.

La Motte
Big wine from one of the big guys of South African wine.

Mullineux
Rich, balanced syrah from the Swartland. "Perfumed... smoke and herbs... caressing, fleshy finish." Wine Advocate 92 points. Available from KLWines.com. Their Schist, Rhone blend, is a high-end winner: "like a captivating ghost story, dark and shivery, all black perfume and imposing granite..." writes Victoria Moore in The Daily Telegraph. In the UK, try BBR.



The Observatory
A bit of Carignane and/or Pinotage makes this one very distinctive.
Rich, elegant, good and totally biodynamic. It's on sale right now at WineLegacy.

Onyx
Bargain from Darling, South Africa. 88 pts WS. Veritas bronze. Available at Astor in NYC.

Rudi Schultz
Classic, delicous SA Syrah, from the former Thelema winemaker. 91 points WE. It's balanced, nuanced but bold. Best bang for buck.

Rust En Vrede
Delicious Syrah, a bargain at under $20. Their Estate Stellenbosch Red is even better, a blend of Syrah, Cab and Merlot, which boasts a 93 point WS score and is "ripe and polished, with a superfresh core of red and black currant."

Sadie Family
Delicious Syrahs, including their Palladius and flagship Columella.

Thelema
"Nicely rendered, with a poweful core of dark plum and crushed currant fruit, held in check by lots of espresso and roasted earth. A dark undertow moves through the finish." 92 points. Wine Spectator. In NYC, try Warehouse Wine & Spirits.

Waterford
Home to the supple Kevin Arnold Syrah, not to mention a great wine and chocolate tasting.


. . .


See our South Africa post.

Wine Anorak list here.

Read the WineTimes.co article.

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