Viognier Va Voom

Luscious, floral, inviting, decadent. That's how a good Viognier tastes. It's a varietal that's been grown in France for ages but was used mostly as a blending grape. In France, Viognier is the single permitted grape variety in the appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet. It's also found its way into winemakers hearts around the new world, with strong Viogners coming out of the United States, Australia, and as far afield as Greece and Japan.

Tired of the dry summer whites? Looking for something a little richer but not over-oaked or cloying? Try a Viognier.

Generally the white wine is cluster pressed and fermented in oak without malolactic fermentation to preserve the delicate floral aromas and fruit characteristics inherent in the wine.

Grown in the northern Rhone Valley, relatively challenging to cultivate, this white grape's plantings were long limited to two appellations in the Northern Rhône - Condrieu, the better known of the two, and Château-Grillet. Condrieu became an AOC in 1940. There are only roughly 130 hectares of vineyards planted here with yields averaging 35-37 hectoliters per hectare, so there's very little wine produced. The wines are rich and complex, bursting with honeysuckle and apricot flavors. Guigal and Guy Bernard are two well-known. Intense and fruity, these wines go well with foie gras and afternoon sun. Domaine du Chene is another popular Viognier, the product of first-generation vignerons--and a spicy, medium-bodied Viogner with just a bit of spice and vanilla. Francois Villard "Le Grand Vallon" boasts 93 points from Wine Spectator ("blanched almond, papaya, pear and Jonagold apple is waiting in reserve. The long, juicy finish...") and is, unfortunately, pretty hard to find.

Elsewhere in France the wine is gaining popularity. Domaine de Triennes is a project in Provence that brings together two Burgundian winemakers in one Viognier. (Try NapaCabs.) Jean-Luc Colombo's Viognier La Violette is an example of the somewhat lighter, fresher, straw-colored Viogniers produced in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in Languedoc, à côté de Provence in southern France.

California makes some wonderful, aromatic Viogniers. Napa Valley bastions Stags' Leap Winery and Freemark Abbey both make a rich, ripe Viogniers that are nonetheless clean and not cloying. Stags' Leap new winemaker manages an almost austere minerality within a wine of figs and mango. Very seductive. Other Californian wineries are crafting excellent Viogniers. Alban from Central Coast is minerally, complex--and a Robert Parker favorite (WA 93 pts, WS 90 pts). Beautifully balanced and aromatic with a nose of sexy guava and mango but as crisp a heart (and every much an original American) as Madame Olenksa. Tanzer says: "Creamy in texture and impressively concentrated, with rich, ripe pit and tropical fruit flavors. This gets all over the palate." More from California Wine Report. (Buy it: In NYC try Sea Grape or K&D.) Denner, also from Paso Robles, makes another top American contender--honesuckle with strong minerality. Jaffurs from Santa Barbara is rich but clean, aromatic without being cloying. Crisp and smooth with just the right amount of acidity. Calera is another fine Central Coast viognier. And thank you WineLine reader for suggesting Bonterra, a Mendocino Viogner that won't break the bank.

In South Africa Avondale (pictured) makes a Viognier blend: Cyclus (60% Viognier grapes with the balance made up of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Semillon grapes). The Foundry also makes a succulent honeysuckley Viognier.

The Viognier Revolution is an Australian Viogner, smooth, ripe and concentrated, and a 90 pt favorite of Jay Miller. Yalumba makes a great, affordable Viognier. Yangarra is another excellent affordable Aussie option. (Try Sherry-Lehman). Heggies from Eden Valey Barossa is another excellent Austalian. Don't think haggis. And don't forget Yalumba, whose budget offering is crisp and worthwhile (and another Wine Spectator fave).

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Gayot list of top Viogniers.