White Burgundy

Out of Burgundy

"There are many ways to the recognition of truth" Isak Dinesin wrote, "and Burgundy is one of them." These are historic wines, and the best are unrivaled treats. Critics rhapsodize but get shy about comparisons. Restaurant goers love them but get a bit shy about the prices. Bargain hunters are often frustrated, but often not. So, what's the skinny on White Burgundy?

First, they make some of the most special, seductive, inimitable white wines in the world.

Second, they are expensive.

Third, they're not all expensive.

There are legends like Domaine Leflaive, Chevalier Montrachet and Domaine Jacques Prieur. If you want a top white Burgundy for under $300, Jancis Robinson believes the Marc Morey wines, made by his son in law, Bernard Mollard, are worth seeking out, as is Domaine Vincent Girardin to name just one of many very worthy mid-list contenders.

For a more modest sum (emphasis on "more" not "modest"), you can drink Puligny-Montrachet and Mersault, the standard bearers of the area. Some of the better known producers include Domaine Ramonet and Domaine Carillon

A bit further afield, just outside the communes of communes of Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune and Vougeot Guillemard-Clerc makes a Puligny-Montrachet "Les Enseigneres." Same great grapes, less pricey brand.


Abordables

The everyday can be pretty good too. As a general rule, avoid the ones that say Chardonnay or Bourgogne on the label. Here's where the Chablis and Petit Chablis find their place on your table, and deservedly so.

Some examples of affordable white burgundies:
Most Meursaults
Many Chablis and Petit Chablis
Domaine Thomas, St.-Veran (next door to Pouilly Fuissee)
Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles
Louis Latour Montagny "Les Buys"
Chateau de Mercey, Hautes-Cote de Beaune Blanc

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Thanks Beekman Wines of NJ for the quote. More here.