Ribera del Duero

Recently, Otto took a trip to Barcelona, and his favorite wine there was Ribera del Duero. The Wall Street Journal likes them too: "These are substantial wines and require substantial meals, from veal and peppers to steak. They will generally age beautifully for at least a few years." Skip the peppers, buy the wine.

Spain's fastest developing region, Ribera del Duero, lies halfway between Madrid and the coast as the crow flies, along a 69 mile stretch of the Duero river. The region boasts more than 250 wineries. Like Rioja and Priorat, Ribera del Duero enjoys the high status designation as a Denominacien de Origen Calificada (DOCa).

The terrain is flat and rocky. The main town is Aranda de Duero although the most famous vineyards surround Peñafiel and Roa de Duero to the west. The grape is Tempranillo, the climate continental-mediterranean. Hot summers, cold winters. This is the land of conquistadors and castles, and ruined fortresses punctuate the region's arid landscapes.

What is Roberto Parker's #1 wine under $100? Valdegatiles, a Ribera from Dominio Atauta. Other Ribera's of note include Pesquera, Capellanes and Vega Sicilia.

Gusto por favor:

Aalto
Abadia Retuerta Rivola
Alion
Arrocal (Bargain Parker fave; our for wine of the year 2007. Try Garnet)
Atalayas (Big, inky, muscular red from nearby DOCa Almansa. Winemaker spent time at Chateaux Mouton and Leoville Las Cases)
Astrales
Balbas
Cantos de Torremilanos (Another bargain Parker fave)
Cillar & Silos Torre Silo
Clos de l'Obac (95 pts WA; delicious, perfumed, lamb likes it, so does Vasiliou)
Condado de Haza (Tanzer says, "Juicy dark berry flavors and dark chocolate.")
Emilio Moro (high end winner and slightly more moderate Finca Resalso)
Legaris (Crianza)
Mibal
Pago de los Capellanes (Crianza, WS 93 points. Tinto Fino says, " Elegant, balanced.")
Pesquera (Parker calls it "the Petrus of Spain." WS 90 points... and try the Reserva, at K&L)
Protos (see below)
Quinta Sardonia (K&L says: "mixes gorgeous, precise red fruits with an earthy terroir.")
Raul Pérez "El Pecado" (from nearby Ribeira Sacra. "Ethereal," says Asimov. Try K&L)
Resalte de Peñafiel (WS 2010 top 100)
Torres de Anguix "Barrica" (a bargain)
"Valdegatiles" Dominio de Atauta ("Velvety, lush, seamless." Tanzer. Try Astor)
Vega Sicilia (pricey, awesome flagbearer)
Vina Pedrosa (WA 90 points, another Ribera bargain)
Vizcarra Roble

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Visiting:

Ribera del Duero is a great place to visit, full of history, great wine, beautiful countryside and great food. The area between Peñafiel and Quintanilla de Onésimo (including Pesquera de Duero and Valbuena de Duero) is considered Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile. The stunning modern Bodega Protos was designed by Richard Rogers. Pago de los Capellanes was designed by one of Spain's pre-eminent winery architects, Jesus Manzanares. Many of the wineries require a reservation, which you can do by email or phone.

Don't miss Peñafiel Castle, a XIV century castle which looks like an enormous stone. And once you are there, dine at the Restaurant Molino de Palacios, a converted flour mill. Continue on to Salamanca.

Read the Travel + Leisure wine tour article.

Bodegas not to be missed:
Atuata ("Valdegatiles" winery)
Protos (designed by architect Richard Rogers)
Pasquera
Emilio Moro

Más Información:

Nice Neighbor:
Sardon del Duero, like the bargain Abadia Retuerta. (Sardon del Duero is located in just outside the Ribera del Duero boundary line).
Where? Try Garnet Wines

Want White?
The Rueda, just west of Ribera del Duero, produces predominantly Verdejo whites, often with some Sauvignon Blanc blended in for good measure.

Eric Asimov article. Read the New York Times article. Read the LA Times article. Read the Bloomberg.com article.

See Wine Spectator Ribera microsite.

Buy: Try The Spanish Table in Berkeley, CA or Mill Valley, CA or online. And Tinto Fino in NYC's East Village (First Avenue).

Otto is planning on going back to Barcelona, Ribera and La Mancha soon. Suggestions, ideas welcome...