January 21, 2006

Australia & New Zealand


Australia's wines can be difficult to navigate. The good ones are expensive, the bad ones are bad, and Yellow Tail is the worst thing to happen to wine since phylloxera. So, what's to love about wines from Down Under? Some winners, though not the aisle I'd go running to every time.

Akarua:
Otago calling... with a pinot noir that's sorta Frenchy, kinda fancy, and silky. Lika lady.

Amisfield:
NZ Pinot. Sidney Int'l Wine Competition Award Winner 2007.

Be My Babich:
A good Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough New Zealand. WS 90 points. Crisp, straw-ish, nettle-y, clean. As many New Zealand SBs do, it errs on the side of a bit too much tropical fruit. In this case peach. Others have too much grapefruit, too much wheatgrass. They make a nice smoky Pinot Noir too.

Bleasdale, Please Dale:
Cab from Langhorne Creek, of which Tanzer says, "Silky and sweet, with inviting dark berry preserve flavors." With their Beverly Hillbilly-style labels and "Australian Red Trophy" from the London International Wine Challenge, there's a lot to like about these boys. Otto finds it a bit too fruit-forward, grape jelly tasting. (buy it)

Cape Mentelle:
Another Margaret River winner. From one of the leading producers of the cooler climate reds. Straight Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab/Merlot blend (which includes a dash of Cabernet Franc and some Petit Verdot for good measure.

Clarendon Hills:
Robert Parker 92 points: "Clarendon Hills' red wines are about as decadent and rich as red wine can get." Not for the faint of heart or coffer.

Cougar Crest:
A blend of syrah, merlot and cab franc for about $20.

Ella for Elephant:
A Kiwi syrah, and a tasty one. Nicely rounded, not too heavy or too sharp. 31 Dover in the UK.

Glaetzer:
Another Barossa Valley winner, Wallace is a Rhone style Shiraz/Grenache blend. WA 93 points. A great value at around $18 a bottle. (Try NapaCabs.com or TheWineBuyer.com). High end Godolphin is a Shiraz/Cabernet blend.

Hare's Chase:
Hare's Chase Barossa Blend gets a Roberto Parker thumbs up of 89 points. 70% Shiraz with squirts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Dainty it is not, mate. What it is is a smart very New World blend, slightly on steroids,but well built nonetheless. It's lively, fresh, layered with no hard edges, no rough tannins. A Sea Grape selection.

Hewitson:
Hewitson Old Garden Mourvèdre, Barossa Valley. Dense, dark, and packing a punch of savory flavor and ripe tannins. Give this lengthy wine 2-3 years to unfurl.

Jim Barry:
Clare Valley Shiraz. 90 pts WS. This is a lovely Shiraz, big, Australian, balanced, ripe, complex, but doesn't sock you over the head and the fruit doesn't overwhelm. Thanks Jim Barry. Try Southern Hemisphere.

Lunar Tunes:
Cabernet Sauvignon from Barossa Valley.

Massale Mama:
Kooyong "Massale" Pinot Noir. 90 points Stephen Tanzer: "Medium red... tightly focused... Lush, round and supple on the palate, the red and dark fruit flavors showing lovely sweetness and concentration.

Mt. Difficulty:
Another winning Otago Pinot Noir. Good concentration and balance. A sweet concentrated front palate, lots of blackberry and fruit. Good not great. We found the Cali pinots in the same price range had more density, range, and complexity. (Also try second label Roaring Meg.)

Penfolds Five:
Penfolds Grange: The peak in price and taste. Graceful yet muscular, a very well crafted wine. Some say this is Australia's best wine. Created by Max Schubert, the grandpere of Australian wine, it's a Shiraz lover's dream. $ a lot (and not ready to drink for quite a few years).
Penfolds Kalimna Bin 28: Called "Baby Grange" also designed by Max Shubert. Not Crocodile Dundee's steak chaser. A bargain at $20 or less.
''St. Henri'' Shiraz. $45.
Penfolds Bin 138 Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre: 2002 collected the trophy for “Best Lighter Bodied Dry Red Table Wine” at the presentation banquet in Sydney on Saturday 5 March 2005.
Cabernet-Shiraz South Australia Bin 389: Claret-style, berries and velvet. $25. WS 89 points.
Speaking of Shiraz mate, look at Glenwood from South Africa. (Shh, yeah, that's not Australia).
Read: Linda Murphy's column "Penfolds: Something Delicious for Everyone."

Paringa:
Hat and cattle.

Ring Bolt:
From the cooler Margaret River region where they make a softer, more elegant style of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cassis and currant, great nose, well balanced. Another Sea Grape Aussie. 2004 not as dense as earlier years, but still good. Available at Sea Grape and Wine Access.

Rosemount:
Rosemount makes some good low-cost contenders.

A Ross is a Ross is a Ross:
Ross Estate Reserve Shiraz from the Barossa Valley. 92 pts RP: "Aged for 18 months in French and American hogshead... espresso, licorice, plum, blueberry, and smoky, gamey notes... Medium-bodied with a plush palate feel, there are gobs of flavor and enough silky tannin."

Sherwood Forest:
Robin Hood likes their Pinot, which is concentrated, plummy, balance. WA 91 points: "The wonderful 2008 Sherwood Estate Pinot Noir has a lovely cranberry and raspberry leaf nose with superb definition."

Talking Turkey:
Turkey Flat Turk Red from Barossa, half Shiraz, with Mourvedre, Grenache, and a scoop of Cabernet Sauvignon. WA 90 points. Available at Wine Legend.

Torbreck is Better than a Shipwreck:
In fact, their flagship "Run Rig" from Barossa Valley consistently scores 99 points or thereabouts. 96.5% Shiraz and 3.5% Viognier.

Waipara, Why Not:
Waipara Springs "Premo" Pinot Noir 93 points WS: "Smooth, round and beautifully focused."

Ay, Yalumba:
Grenache: Australia is the Texas of the wine world. Everything is bigger, stronger. This grenache is bold and rich.
Hand Picked Tri-Centenary Grenache: Same, only better.
Hand Picked Mourvedre-Grenache-Shiraz: Robert Parker gave the 2003 91 points.
Unwooded Chardonnay. $10 a bottle. The unwooded chardonnay is a good guy. This one loves you.
Octavius Shiraz. WA 97 pts. The jewel in Yalumba’s crown.

Yellow Tail:
Great for marketing case studies. But you wouldn't want to drink a bottle.

. . .

Sydney International Wine Competition. Good recommendations, ugly site.

Australia Now: Food & Wine article.

Vinfolio has a good selection of the high end Aussie wine.

Southern Wines So. hemisphere specialists.

The Jug Shop Specialist purveyor.

Yes, they do use Mourvedre outside Australia. Like in Provence and Bandol. Cline, from Contra Costa, makes one too.

Hello Layton. Nice wine, mate. Knock it in.

January 17, 2006

South African Sauvignon Blanc



Anyone for Crisp and Affordable?


A recent New York Times article called Steenberg one of the best wine values out there. "Crisp, fresh, zesty and balanced, with unexpected depth," cooed the NYT. It's a good wine. And at about $8 a bottle, a great bargain. For just a little more Mulderbosch, Neil Ellis or Wine Spectator faves Buitenverwachting and Southern Right are even better. The point is they're almost all good, with varying degrees of crispness, grassiness, a touch of melon, green apple, or grapefruit here and there. Serve chilled.

Good South African Sauvignon Blancs, some with bigger price tags (nope, not in alphabetical order):
Anura -- from Paarl. Clean, crisp. Everything you want it to be
Buitenverwachting -- Dry but not sour, plus a name that's fun to say
Buitenverwachting second label Beyond -- Crisp with grapefruit nose and taste -- WS 88 pts
Neil Ellis -- Clean, elegant and refreshing
Jordan -- Lovely clean regular cab, and a slightly more gooseberry and oak Outlier sauv blanc.
Steenberg -- Would the NYT lie to you? Good, but on the boring, mass-produced tasting side.
Thelema -- Aromatic and so friendly it almost hugs you
Warwick -- Goosebery-wrapped density
Fairview -- Clean, steely
Sauvignon Republic -- Wth a name like that, right? Stellenbosch and Russian River. Fun taste test.
Simonsig -- Soft, tropical fruit, minerality with mysteriously soft mouthfeel
Southern Right -- WSJ and Wine Spectator winner from the Western Cape. Look for the whale on the label.
Springfield -- Crisp, melony (buy it)
Stony Brook -- If you can get it

A couple to avoid:
Fairvalley -- or rather mediocrewine
Amani -- can't trust a bottle with an embossed square coin
Indaba -- as in the song, "Indaba is doo doo, Indaba is doo doo"

Where:
In New York, try 67 Wines for Fairview, Neil Ellis and other SA favorites

More:
Wine Mag, South Africa's Wine Magazine is well written and trustworthy

Believe it or not:
“Cat pee” is in fact a complimentary tasting note, associated with some of the best sauvignon blanc bottlings. It’s a way of pointing out herbaceousness in the wine. Yes, we draw the line at using number two to describe wine.

Stellenbosh Dreaming:
Check out Forbes trip advisory; eat at Le Quartier Français in Franshoek and Cuvee Restaurant on the Simonsig estate.

More here:
Read Anthony's ArtInfo.com article.