Bordeaux 2009

The Bordeaux 2009 vintage is, by all accounts, exceptional. The Telegraph is already calling it the best vintage of the century, as a result of perfect weather conditions. Parker says it's the best vintage he's tasted in 32 years. All of which probably accounts for the sky high prices the wines are already seeing. The 2009 Haut-Brion is already close to $1,000. Expect to pay a lot for the other big names like Cheval Blanc, Haut Bailly, Palmer, Leoville Las Cases, and Angelus, all of whom have produced dazzling 2009 offerings.

"Even Bordeaux’s château owners admit to surprise at the sky high prices of the 2009s," writes Jancis Robinson, noting that some 2009 futures are even approaching the current prices of 2005 Bordeaux (the most recent mega-hyped vintage and a very good year by all accounts).

Why are prices sky high? As Pierre Lawton of Bordeux merchant Alias puts it: “I thought demand would be spread across the board in terms of quality but it’s been much more weighted towards the top end. In fact it has been quite difficult to sell wines below $50 a bottle. There seems to have been a lot of speculative buying.”

There are, happily, some bargains. PJ Wines recently released a detailed report, and they have loads of 2009 futures, from Chateau Climens (WA 96 - 98 pts) and Smith Haut Lafitte, both at around $100. At $60 and $75 a bottle, Chateau D'Issan and St. Pierre are relative bargains. "Unbelievably powerful, rich, and impressive, this may be the finest St. Pierre ever made," says Parker. Perhaps the best bargain is Chasse Spleen at around $30. (“The 2009 is the finest Chasse Spleen since the 1989.")

Sherry-Lehman also has a big inventory of 2009 futures. If you have a cellar (and time), their budget-minded recommendations include Chateau Carbonnieux, Croix de Beaucaillou, Phelan Segur and Les Ormes de Pez.

Wine merchant Millesima specializes in Bordeaux grand crus, from "Everyday Excellence" to "Bordeaux Superstars."

UK merchant Interest In Wine has comprehensive notes on Bordeaux and a very good article on Bordeaux's allocation system. (Summary: Dickensian.)

Read WineLine's roundup of Bordeaux.

Does this mean 2009 Bordeaux futures (also called en primeur) are a good investment? Yes. Hard to get your hands on a good case that you can afford? Naturellement. Read the article in ThisIsMoney.co.uk.

Read Jancis Robinson in the FT on 2009 Bordeaux prices.

Want something you can drink right now? How about a 1997 for under $50. KL Wines loves Chateau Langoa Barton, which Tanzer describes as "supple, sweet and cedary; distinctly softer than the '98." Or try the 2000 Lanessan for around $30.